What screed has he got for you ?
HEELLLP!!! Screed has blown and bubble up :(
- Thread starter kjacko
- Start date
D
Doggit
I'm sorry to have to say it, but at some point, you're going to have to bite the bullet, rip it up, and start from scratch. Whatever you do is going to be a bit of a hash, and you'll never know if another section is going to lift.
You'll need a damp meter to see if the floors a problem, and then go from there. The bitumen may have been from a parquet floor, and would act as a DPM itself. Having got the floor up, you'll need to get the bitumen off before you do anything else.
But having said all that, is you mate good enough to clean and prime the floor, re screed it, and then level out the new tiles - assuming you can still get some more. If you want to try and rescue the floor, then you'd be better off leaving it for a couple more months to see if anything else is going to lift.
You'll need a damp meter to see if the floors a problem, and then go from there. The bitumen may have been from a parquet floor, and would act as a DPM itself. Having got the floor up, you'll need to get the bitumen off before you do anything else.
But having said all that, is you mate good enough to clean and prime the floor, re screed it, and then level out the new tiles - assuming you can still get some more. If you want to try and rescue the floor, then you'd be better off leaving it for a couple more months to see if anything else is going to lift.
Sooooooo......epic thread revival here.
Seeing as the floor is STILL rising nearer the outside PVC door, i'm having to pluck up the courage to rip the whole floor up. I'll re-screed it and this time i'm going to use LVT clic lock planks instead, so no glue.
Any opinions/advice on this system? Anyone used it?
Seeing as the floor is STILL rising nearer the outside PVC door, i'm having to pluck up the courage to rip the whole floor up. I'll re-screed it and this time i'm going to use LVT clic lock planks instead, so no glue.
Any opinions/advice on this system? Anyone used it?
Get quickstep livyn. Great gear. Only need 2mm expansion gap
We have been supplying Victoria Mode with little to no expansion gap to good effect on small areas, I wouldnt trust any floating floor over a floor that has a suspect history and has'nt had at least a protometer on it, preferably a hydrometer to check for moisture.
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Hello,
anyone who reads this post - I have had to comment incase someone is reading these and has the same issue as no one has solved their problem.
I am the owner of a flooring company we supply and fit a lot of LVT which requires subfloor preparation.
In this particular case the reason why your floor has blown is because of the primer and compound you have used were incorrect.
Firstly the adhesive residue is non absorbing which means the primer that should have been used would be P141 not P131, this is the primer you would use over ceramic tiles for example, it creates a really strong bond to the subfloor, a barrier if you will, allowing the compound to bond.
You said you waited a long time for the primer to dry, you should be applying the self levelling compound around 30 mins to 1 hour after the primer has been applied to the floor, once it is completely dry, if it’s not dry you’ve laid it too thick, go over it again with a dry roller and wait 15 mins or so - you apply the compound straight the way to avoid any extra dust or foreign objects to appear on the surface, which is part of why you prime in the first place.
The levelling compound you should have used would have been Ball 1200 or Ball 1500, they’re designed to be installed over residues that you can’t remove and have a moisture tolerance ability.
Finally, although you’ve said they didn’t fail in these areas - if you have Marley tiles down, remove ALL of them, it doesn’t take long it’s not a hard job, if you’re going to do a job, do it properly, it’s a lot of faff to have a nice floor, do it once and be happy with a job well done to last years to come.
Thanks
Liam - PlankX.
anyone who reads this post - I have had to comment incase someone is reading these and has the same issue as no one has solved their problem.
I am the owner of a flooring company we supply and fit a lot of LVT which requires subfloor preparation.
In this particular case the reason why your floor has blown is because of the primer and compound you have used were incorrect.
Firstly the adhesive residue is non absorbing which means the primer that should have been used would be P141 not P131, this is the primer you would use over ceramic tiles for example, it creates a really strong bond to the subfloor, a barrier if you will, allowing the compound to bond.
You said you waited a long time for the primer to dry, you should be applying the self levelling compound around 30 mins to 1 hour after the primer has been applied to the floor, once it is completely dry, if it’s not dry you’ve laid it too thick, go over it again with a dry roller and wait 15 mins or so - you apply the compound straight the way to avoid any extra dust or foreign objects to appear on the surface, which is part of why you prime in the first place.
The levelling compound you should have used would have been Ball 1200 or Ball 1500, they’re designed to be installed over residues that you can’t remove and have a moisture tolerance ability.
Finally, although you’ve said they didn’t fail in these areas - if you have Marley tiles down, remove ALL of them, it doesn’t take long it’s not a hard job, if you’re going to do a job, do it properly, it’s a lot of faff to have a nice floor, do it once and be happy with a job well done to last years to come.
Thanks
Liam - PlankX.