Honda 476 Blade Clutch Noise

Morning John and thank you for the advice - Im not sure I need to remove the pilot mixture screw but useful to know. Stupid place to put it as you can't access it when the carb is mounted - you have to remove the air filter and the carb falls off.
The picture I attached was one I took prior to stripping so it looks a lot better now! It sounds like I have followed all the right steps with cleaning and compressed air so unless I have managed to contaminate the carb with bad fuel over the weekend it should be good. I am however thinking an inline filter will be sensible going forward.
Slightly off topic but how do you over winter your engines - there's something about draining and leaving carbs dry over winter I dont like - especially 2-strokes but because the fuel these days is such crap and eats rubber hoses Im not sure leaving fuel in is the better option? Im thinking some Stihl premix over winter might be better for 2-strokes as opposed to self mix but not sure about 4 strokes
 
Only my opinion of course, but I'm finding with high ethanol fuels there is a tendency to interfere with carburettor diaphragms and also to absorb water - the longevity of these fuels in cans is unknown.
With four stroke machines, I tend to run the engines until dry if the machines are going to be left over winter. E5 fuel lasts well enough, at least a year but I'm not sure about E10.
With two strokes I'm becoming more and more reliant on ready mixed Aspen type fuel, produced by Stihl and others. This 50:1 fuel mix is good for years even when left in the tank, and it's what I always recommend for use in those machines which are seldom used.......some strimmers only use a couple of tankfulls per season so problems can be expected there.
A four stroke fuel exists too, but I don't tend to use that.
If I'm using a lot of two stroke mixture, its Oregon oil plus E5 at a 50:1 mix.....being so brightly coloured you can hardly miss it!

With your Honda engine, it's 10/40 semi synthetic lube for me.

John :)
 
Okay (apologies for delayed update) Basically all the aforementioned problems stemmed from poor fuel!
Fresh tank through clean carbs and no problems (I think the carbs were good anyway) - lesson for me - fresh fuel every three months so Im not taking more than 3Lts at anyone time in future.
As with most things in my life one thing often leads to another
I have attached a video showing the mower not shutting down - have I overlooked connecting something??
 
Problem No2
The engine speed dies when engaging the rotor. If the rotor clutch is engaged slowly the engine appears to cope. If the clutch is engaged 'normally' it dies. It used to kill the engine but the new fuel appears to give it enough energy to catch and keep going. Possibly running too lean?? or is there a more likely cause?
 
Cable needs adjusting on carb so it kills the engine or stop wire is off connector to fix shut down issue.
Place lever in stop position with engine running ,slacken cable clamp screw and move outer cable until engine dies..then make sure choke still operates when lever is opposite end . For your other issue, you don't seem to have enough revs to be engaging the clutch, it should be running at governed speed really and used that way to maximise bagging of clippings
 
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As above, I think there is a micro switch near the top of the engine which needs to operate to stop the motor.
Whilst it isn't possible to increase the operating speed of the engine simply, it's usually possible to carefully bend some of the metalwork at the end of the throttle cable which has the same effect.
This makes the blade engage without as much fuss, and also allows the grass to be shot deeper into the grass bag.
Only my opinion but I've never found fuel to fail in such a short time........some of mine is a year old and it's still good. I suspect your carburettor work has sorted this one!
John :)
 
Defo fuel - I drained the tank and carb bowl, refuelled and problem solved. I didnt bother cleaning the carb again as I couldn't possibly clean it anymore. I dont recall ever seeing a micro switch on this model - I will check the parts diagram otherwise its a linkage / cable check. Ive had this carb off so anytime perhaps I need to check configurations
 
Pablo131 said:
Defo fuel - I drained the tank and carb bowl, refuelled and problem solved. I didnt bother cleaning the carb again as I couldn't possibly clean it anymore. I dont recall ever seeing a micro switch on this model - I will check the parts diagram otherwise its a linkage / cable check. Ive had this carb off so anytime perhaps I need to check configurations
Click to expand...

Honda SWITCH ASSY., ENGINE - 35120-ZL8-003

www.diyspareparts.com www.diyspareparts.com
 
Thanks for that - found it on parts diagram - possibly got dislodged when dissembling. Dont even recall seeing it before which probably says something.
Out of interest - the mixture screw only has quarter turn on it. Clockwise lean, anti clockwise enrich?
 
That is correct.
Unfortunately Honda, in their infinite wisdom, don't expect this screw to be removed completely - which means that the jet beneath it can't also be cleaned or inspected!
If it becomes necessary, it's possible to saw off the restricting lug, or remove the lead cap completely - revealing a normal slotted screw beneath.
John :)
 
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