Honda crv 07. remove bolt from snapped oil sensor

I can try with size around 6mm. The garage messed around trying to drill through and I may need to make a clean hole first bit bigger, may 6.5/7mm too.

Spoke with Snap on distributor near me and seems like few other people are waiting for those to arrive but there is no certain date and could be easily after Christmas. Web site also say in arrival on the 29.11 but this could be arrival in the USA as distributor said but for sure not in the UK by next week.
 
Got extractor, removed radiator to have better access but I have realised the garage has messed around very badly. Not sure if they tried to hammer down instead of using extractor and then told me we put job on hold till Christmas. The 1/4 inch extractor now fit in but not sure if hitting the sensor or the engine block. I have attached photos. Freeze spray and heat still not working but at this point I doubt there is anything left
 
Photo 1 when left car. Photo 2 after they messed around
 

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I'd go for the extractor, nothing else to try there. However, gentle drilling one step up at a time should break the thread of the sensor and then hopefully it will unwind or at least break up.
I think you are wasting your time with heat now.
I guess you have the replacement sensor to hand- you will be able to gauge how deep things are from that.
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
I'd go for the extractor, nothing else to try there. However, gentle drilling one step up at a time should break the thread of the sensor and then hopefully it will unwind or at least break up.
I think you are wasting your time with heat now.
I guess you have the replacement sensor to hand- you will be able to gauge how deep things are from that.
John :)
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Yep, the new sensor is roughly 9mm deep. Also the sensor seem to be an M9 size. I can step by step hopefullu .5mm per time to get drilling till 7.5 or 8.

I may need to remove A/C tube too to make drill work better. How I can discharge the gas safely?
HERTS P&D said:
You could try this short set, not cheap but might work:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LANNIU-Ext...rds=short+Extractor+Set&qid=1637862464&sr=8-7

Andy
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got them today. Seems like the 1/4 goes in but nothing with moderate torque. Not sure if I have to apply brute force or will break everything. Also due of the mess from the garage not sure how much three is left and worried the extractor may start biting the engine block
 
Jonny Vee said:
Yep, the new sensor is roughly 9mm deep. Also the sensor seem to be an M9 size. I can step by step hopefullu .5mm per time to get drilling till 7.5 or 8.

I may need to remove A/C tube too to make drill work better. How I can discharge the gas safely?
Click to expand...

You cannot, legally - it would need to go to an a/c specialist to recover the contents. Beg, borrow, or steal - a drill right angle adaptor and used a very short drill bit.

I cannot work out from the photo, whether the shiny wider part is part of the sensor, or the block. Any chance of a photo of the new sensor?

If it is part of the sensor, could you perhaps try knocking the edge around with a screwdriver and a hammer?
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
You cannot, legally - it would need to go to an a/c specialist to recover the contents. Beg, borrow, or steal - a drill right angle adaptor and used a very short drill bit.

I cannot work out from the photo, whether the shiny wider part is part of the sensor, or the block. Any chance of a photo of the new sensor?

If it is part of the sensor, could you perhaps try knocking the edge around with a screwdriver and a hammer?
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Thanks, it is just the threaded part left in. Time for right angled drill adaptor, a short drill bit, then try an extractor..
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
Thanks, it is just the threaded part left in. Time for right angled drill adaptor, a short drill bit, then try an extractor..
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Few more photos after cleaning up with bit of sand paper.

Seems like the extractor is still biting the threaded part.

Tomorrow will try again with extractor. Best option to hit the wrench with small hammer shot or strong steady force?

Didn't get what you mean for right angled drill adapter, short bit and then extractor. If I drill even bigger I guess I would need a tap to make new thread as nothing will be left if I drill into it. Please clarify and will get what needed. Many thanks
 

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Jonny Vee said:
Didn't get what you mean for right angled drill adapter, short bit and then extractor. If I drill even bigger I guess I would need a tap to make new thread as nothing will be left if I drill into it. Please clarify and will get what needed. Many thanks
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You said (I thought) you could not get space the get a drill in? If you have managed it then OK..

The idea is that you just screw the extractor in, turning it anti-clock and that should screw itself in until it jams itself. Once jammed, it should start to unscrew (hopefully) what is left of the sensor. Good luck!

Worst possible result, is to break the extractor in the hole, so if you feel it springing / close to breaking, STOP.

Your next trick is to drill it out completely and tap it, hoping all the bits of metal drop outside the block, rather than in. You would need to get a suitable tap from an engineering supplier to match the thread of the sensor.

If you do break the extractor in, you will not be able to drill it out - it will be engine out and taken an engineer who has access to spark erosion. OR - if it seals itself from oil leakage, you could maybe do without oil pressure warning.
 
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I'd ascertain the thread diameter then drill through with a 2mm smaller bit, that should get you to the state where you can start tapping away what's left of any thread (with a small flat bladed screwdriver) and pulling out the twists with needle nose pliers. If you can't get anything loose you'll have to chance a bigger drill bit, but don't go nearer than 1mm to the actual size. If you end up not managing to get any thread out and your hole ends up 1mm less than the bolt diameter then a tap will cut a bit of a thread - it may not be perfect but if you can gently screw the new sensor fully in then you will be able to successfully seal it with a suitable thread sealant.

If this fails (and you don't have much to lose) then a local engineering shop will be able to helicoil it for you.

Drilling out threads is always a bit hit and miss, it's difficult to drill exactly down the centre and you need to spot that first bit of the crest of the thread becoming exposed.
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
You said (I thought) you could not get space the get a drill in? If you have managed it then OK..

The idea is that you just screw the extractor in, turning it anti-clock and that should screw itself in until it jams itself. Once jammed, it should start to unscrew (hopefully) what is left of the sensor. Good luck!

Worst possible result, is to break the extractor in the hole, so if you feel it springing / close to breaking, STOP.

Your next trick is to drill it out completely and tap it, hoping all the bits of metal drop outside the block, rather than in. You would need to get a suitable tap from an engineering supplier to match the thread of the sensor.

If you do break the extractor in, you will not be able to drill it out - it will be engine out and taken an engineer who has access to spark erosion. OR - if it seals itself from oil leakage, you could maybe do without oil pressure warning.
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Thanks for the continuous support. I have made another attempt today. the 1/4 Extractor almost completely screw inside the remaining sensor but when got stuck to start unscrewing it, nothing it won`t turn and I have applied a well moderate force to it, the 1/4 seems quite big but not sure how much force can absorb before snapping and won`t snap it in. While extractor well stuck inside made a second attempt warming the external area with heat gun for good 3/4 minute but nothing and I`m worried too much heating would also compromise the sealant just few cm above the hole which seal the crankshaft. This is driving me crazy. How the hell can be stuck on that suck way. They must be used some crazy superglue which support high temperature. Tried the freeze spray too and it is laughable. it did not get to any close to the -50. it stay liquid not even freezing.

Shall I try with the pencil blowtorch? if yes shell I push extractor in and then warm external area or shell I hit with the flame the remaining sensor inside the hole?

It may sound stupid but is the Impact driver another option due of the impact shock which gives while trying to unscrew?
 
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