Honda crv 07. remove bolt from snapped oil sensor

Mottie said:
You will catch zero swarf in the filter. It's the wrong side of the filter. Personally I wouldn't use any sealant on the switch either - one piece of that in the gallery and you'll suffer the same damage to bearings if it blocks the oil way to the crank.
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How would you Seal it?
 
You will be fine with the heldite, but you only want it on the threaded portion and leave it to dry before running. You dont need loads of it, just a smear. You could try it without first to see if you need anything but that will depend on the amount of damage to the housing.
 
Jonny Vee said:
I would day very bad considering I had to drill it out.
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I would suggest limiting how much sealant you put on and restricting it to just the thread nearest the outside of the hole. In other words - Apply it only on the threads of the sensor, so the tip is clean of the sealant.
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
I would suggest limiting how much sealant you put on and restricting it to just the thread nearest the outside of the hole. In other words - Apply it only on the threads of the sensor, so the tip is clean of the sealant.
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Thanks Harry, this was my intention to avoid sealant messing around.

As the housing will be again dirty from oil after the engine turn.Can I use decreases and then rag to clean thred before sealant?
 
Once you have allowed oil to squirt out of the drilling -hopefully taking any debris with it - give it a blast of carb cleaner as a solvent, dry it off then carefully wind the new sensor in.
Well done on this one - a bloody nightmare we all face from time to time!
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
Once you have allowed oil to squirt out of the drilling -hopefully taking any debris with it - give it a blast of carb cleaner as a solvent, dry it off then carefully wind the new sensor in.
Well done on this one - a bloody nightmare we all face from time to time!
John :)
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Is the WD degreser similar thing or would be better the carb or break cleaner as solvent?
 
Hi Everyone, New switch finally fitted, oil changed, filter changed. Switch seems not leaking for now. I want say a huge thanks you to every single one for the technical and moral support on the issue. Unfortunately I haven`t sorted out the problem I had before going to replace the switch. Basically few weeks ago I turned the engine on and light on the dashboard turned from red to flashing amber. I remove oil cup and seen pressure coming out. I then thought switch was gone and decided to replace it when banged it snapped it. Now with new switch and hell of work and money to put everything back the issue stay the same. Turned the dashboard on lights goes in red oil light. Engine on and flashing amber light goes off. I have disconnected the switch and when dashboard is on flashing light amber goes on before even starting engine. I guess it`s reading the switch but not sure what`s wrong. Before putting the switch on I turned engine on for few second and load of oil came out. Put rag to close the hole and load of pressure was there. I believe the pressure is there unless is not enough otherwise this is an electric issue. Any thought on this?
 
Oil coming out onto rag, means there has to be at least some pressure there. Normally to check the actual oil pressure, they would remove the sensor and replace it with a meter, but that is out of the question now. Is the sensor just a simple pressure switch?

One or perhaps two terminals would suggest a simple switch. If it is a simple switch, then it can either short to indicate oil pressure, or go open. You could test again, by seeing what the light does when shorting the two terminals together, or shorting the single terminal to earth - at the wiring loom. That would prove the the the wiring to the sensor is OK and then point to a problem with the sensor, or the actual oil pressure.
 
First of all, very well done with this one! A heart sinking scenario every time.
Here’s my thoughts on the rest.....maybe the switch you renewed was the oil pressure switch, but maybe the fault lies on the oil level checking system? I may be talking through my backside but the fault displays may be the same.
Also on some vehicles the oil opacity is looked at (Peugeot / Fiat) and alarms can come on courtesy of mileage, even though the oil is clean.
I wonder if the CRV forums can shed any light?
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
First of all, very well done with this one! A heart sinking scenario every time.
Here’s my thoughts on the rest.....maybe the switch you renewed was the oil pressure switch, but maybe the fault lies on the oil level checking system? I may be talking through my backside but the fault displays may be the same.
Also on some vehicles the oil opacity is looked at (Peugeot / Fiat) and alarms can come on courtesy of mileage, even though the oil is clean.
I wonder if the CRV forums can shed any light?
John :)
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Thanks, It`s challenging when you have to play with this but as long as you can fix it all good.

I have found the oil level and look like this below

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MQK5C93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is there any test I can do before replacing it?
 
That’s the sensor that screws into the sump....I’ve never replaced one but I’d disconnect it and try, and then maybe bridge the terminals of the connector and try again. Nothing guaranteed here of course!
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
That’s the sensor that screws into the sump....I’ve never replaced one but I’d disconnect it and try, and then maybe bridge the terminals of the connector and try again. Nothing guaranteed here of course!
John :)
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Would diagnostic be cheaper and able to show the true cause of the warning light?
 
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