How to join a solid wood worktop

[lynchnigel]

Yes without then, as someone already said PVA is pretty good, just ensure the joints are good and close and clean.
Then clamp them up. Pack the boards up if they aren't all the same thickness, before nipping the clamps up gently first, tap any face not inline with a black and then tighten, make sure they don't start curving as you tighten the clamps up.
Or clamp both sides of possible.
If clamps in one side, stick a level of something flat across the boards to ensure flatness

 

[Nozzle]

And try to alternate the grain, if applicable, so each plank cups in an opposite direction to its neighbour

Nozzle

 

[Dave4290]

Yes without then, as someone already said PVA is pretty good, just ensure the joints are good and close and clean.
Then clamp them up. Pack the boards up if they aren't all the same thickness, before nipping the clamps up gently first, tap any face not inline with a black and then tighten, make sure they don't start curving as you tighten the clamps up.
Or clamp both sides of possible.
If clamps in one side, stick a level of something flat across the boards to ensure flatness

thanks will give that a go

And try to alternate the grain, if applicable, so each plank cups in an opposite direction to its neighbour

Nozzle

hmm ok makes sense cheers

 

[^woody^]

There will always be some finishing required to even out/flatted the surface, and you wont beat a cabinet scraper for the best finish.

There should not be any cupping problems with that manufactured board, so I'd be inclined to select and align the pieces for appearance and with grain in the same direction (if you can) as that will help with the finishing and final appearance

 

[Dave4290]

There will always be some finishing required to even out/flatted the surface, and you wont beat a cabinet scraper for the best finish.

There should not be any cupping problems with that manufactured board, so I'd be inclined to select and align the pieces for appearance and with grain in the same direction (if you can) as that will help with the finishing and final appearance

Ah ok, so I should be able to put the pieces back the way they were cut (as best I can)

Would you recommend using a primer before staining to esnure the stain takes evenly throughout the board?

 

[^woody^]

Ah ok, so I should be able to put the pieces back the way they were cut (as best I can)

Would you recommend using a primer before staining to esnure the stain takes evenly throughout the board?

Is stain primed? I didn't think it was, otherwise it don't soak in. Follow the instructions for whatever product you are using

 

[lynchnigel]

If you're using it for food? Danish oil or a wax might be an idea

 

[Dave4290]

Is stain primed? I didn't think it was, otherwise it don't soak in. Follow the instructions for whatever product you are using

I'm sure I was watching a couple of videos that suggested your prepare (prime?) the wood before stain. To give it an even finish?

If you're using it for food? Danish oil or a wax might be an idea

No it will be just used as a computer desk. I used Liberon deck oil on my deck and absolutely love it. Probably not suitable for an inside desk though

My glue (Titebond III) arrived today so hopefully going to make a start at the weekend (family permitting)

 

[^woody^]

It depends what you are calling 'stain'. To me, stain is a penetrating liquid that soaks in to the surface to change its colour, and is not a finish. To others, stain is a coloured varnish that sits on the surface.

Boiled linseed oil and a wax polish can rarely be beated for a finish, unless you need a tough surface coating for protection

 

[KenGMac]

As the glue is with you, final "Challenge"

If you can could you post an image of the finished job???

Ken.

 

[Dave4290]

As the glue is with you, final "Challenge"

If you can could you post an image of the finished job???

Ken.

Certainly

 

[lynchnigel]

I'm sure I was watching a couple of videos that suggested your prepare (prime?) the wood before stain. To give it an even finish?



No it will be just used as a computer desk. I used Liberon deck oil on my deck and absolutely love it. Probably not suitable for an inside desk though

My glue (Titebond III) arrived today so hopefully going to make a start at the weekend (family permitting)

Titebond lll sounds like a Marks and Spensor hopefully it's not too thick so you don't get a dirty big glue line, but hey at least it's coming together or will be.
As woody said I would personally do the oil or wax which just get waved or oiled out if it's marked.