Hyundai G4FA engine

........... and to think, all that dosh spent on new parts and then perhaps something else fails.
I'm certainly not taking the engine out.
 
I've surveyed the in car option of head and timing cover off and its simply too much hassle and what could be a lot of expense.

I believe a new motor is forecast albeit not fresh of the production line - those prices are just too silly now.
 
A good move, I think......I notice engines from ebay range from £250 towards a grand.
I'm not sure how relevant this is, but ask whoever is doing the engine replacement, what the ECU issues are, if any?
Good luck with it!
John :)
 
DIYspanner said:
I've surveyed the in car option of head and timing cover off and its simply too much hassle and what could be a lot of expense.

I believe a new motor is forecast albeit not fresh of the production line - those prices are just too silly now.
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Slightly off-topic question for DIYspanner ... and all those who use trolley jacks :

Would you buy a mechanically-lockable trolley jack like this ?


The finished retail unit would have an additional 4 inches of chassis length (between the lifting-arm and the pump) - so you could lock it from behind the lifting arm ....

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... rather than through it -

Pre-split lockring retracted.png
 
It looks like a good idea but it's too much faffing about for me so, I'd rather just use axle stands.
I think there will be people who forget to screw it up and will get hurt.
I also believe the triangular foot of an axle stand would be more stable.
 
Stivino said:
It looks like a good idea but it's too much faffing about for me so, I'd rather just use axle stands.
I think there will be people who forget to screw it up and will get hurt.
I also believe the triangular foot of an axle stand would be more stable.
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Agreed - on older chassies with chassis rails and pinch-welds that run the whole length of the sill ... but where do you put an axle-stand near the jack on modern car chassies with a single jacking point at each corner ?

It makes secure axle-stand placement a time-consuming faff that's often a compromise - not least because the torque forces placed on an axle-stand when a car is lowered onto it can't be resolved because the stand has no wheels ... and the stand ends up on two instead of three feet, whence you have to jack the car up again and adjust its position to make it stable.

Two locking jacks on the same side of the car would make a very stable platform.
 
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Regarding the i20's G4FA engine, we've decided to send the car to the local breakers. I was tempted to try a new chain but that's £130 down the plug hole if there's a bent valves.

The i20's been replaced by a 2019 125bhp Ecoboost Fiesta which its new owner loved when she test drove it. Getting 125bhp out of a 1.0 engine takes some doing, 25bhp more than my 100bhp VW 1.9 TDI. I remember when the mk2 Cavalier was launched and they bragged about 90bhp from a 1.6 engine.

Regarding the trolley jack, the locking collar threads may get damaged and putting your fingers in seems a bit iffy to me. Perhaps speak to engineers from BSI and get their opinion.
 
Unlike the dense, tight-fighting, V-cut threads of clamping fasteners such as nuts and bolts - the locking components have the same coarse pitch and loose fit as the adjustable alumInium scaffolding legs below :

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They're square-cut threads (for high-load applications) - and the coarse pitch and loose fit will tolerate dirt and minor damage.
 
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Stivino said:
You're not doing it right.
I often go round the stand with a hammer and give them a wee chap just to be sure.
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When I get my students jacking up a vehicle and putting it on stands, I always say to them to have a go at rocking the car to satisfy themselves how secure it is. Never had one fall off!
 
I had a chain stretch on a 1.6 hyundai petrol engine, and from reading the various forums, it's quite a common issue
 
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