No never, all pipework runs up from the ground floor and down from the first floor so I assume it is located between floors.
Ideal Vogue combi. Range rating, or the lack of ......
- Thread starter Mr.B
- Start date
By way of a quick update ..... last Thursday and Friday a local Ideal MAX accredited, local, well respected firm installed a 32kw Ideal Vogue MAX combi for me. Two blokes plus an apprentice. HW cyl. out, F&E out, CW storage tank out ... Ideal magnetic filter, Altecnic shock arrestor & auto air vent in. They fitted my rad and TRV in airing cupboard and kept the pipework concealed under the floor in there wherever feasible. They connected my 28mm gas Tracpipe to the boiler via a metre or so of 22mm copper.They connected the mains cold water via my 22mm dedicated supply taken immediately off the 25mm MDPE (included was my own Reliance drop tight pressure reducing valve and Pegler lever valve for isolation purposes).
Everything was pressfit ... hugely neat ... really impressive.
I was concerned that the 10mm microbore might leak from the underfloor manifold when the system was pressurized - but it turned out that there isn't one, and there were no leaks anyway. The gauge on the combi is one bar at rest and remains constant for the past week
I was concerned about remote taps and toilets detracting from the shower performance. It seems I was largely worrying unduly although if you fully open the hot sink tap right next to the shower then, understandably, the shower definitely doesn't like that. ... othe draw off's don't seem to cause much concern. I haven't yet tried two showers together. I have fitted a pressure restrictor in the shower hose (MIRA) which is a great improvement ... before fitting it the shower was much too powerful and the MIRA thermostatic mixer wasn't keen on trying to restrict the flow, but now it's fine ... and I haven't yet adjusted the Mira mixer (via the control screw on the back of the mixer) from LOW pressure to HIGH pressure .... it might be better still, or it might not?
I did do plenty research but I struck lucky with the company and the installers - they were diamonds and the pipework is as pretty as a picture. They didn't do a power wash but filled up with Adey cleaner and will return on Friday to flush out and refill with Adey inhibitor. I have dosed the system with Calchem Three In One at the rate of one litre annually for the past 10 years and the water is clear.
They fitted an Ideal HALO wireless programmable thermostat. There's just one cable feeding the boiler, a live neutral and earth from the consumer unit's dedicated circuit, via an FCU in the airing cupboard. It remains to be seen if I need a 60 watt tubular heater in there for use in the summer to dry the towels.. I haven't got a dual fuel towel rail in the bathroom.
The flue is via a tiled garage roof and they had a roofer attend for the slate and the internal flue is beautifully run. They used a laser device when installing much of the stuff and it shows. Its gorgeous (if pipework can be gorgeous.)
I've spent literally years on here trying to discern the best (for us) system (perhaps not every single day) - thanks muchly to those who have advised (the vast majority for the better, one or two perhaps ever so slightly less so, Bernard
). I hope the stainless HEX pays dividends and hope I don't need to find out how good Ideal's customer service is.
Thanks again.
Everything was pressfit ... hugely neat ... really impressive.
I was concerned that the 10mm microbore might leak from the underfloor manifold when the system was pressurized - but it turned out that there isn't one, and there were no leaks anyway. The gauge on the combi is one bar at rest and remains constant for the past week
I was concerned about remote taps and toilets detracting from the shower performance. It seems I was largely worrying unduly although if you fully open the hot sink tap right next to the shower then, understandably, the shower definitely doesn't like that. ... othe draw off's don't seem to cause much concern. I haven't yet tried two showers together. I have fitted a pressure restrictor in the shower hose (MIRA) which is a great improvement ... before fitting it the shower was much too powerful and the MIRA thermostatic mixer wasn't keen on trying to restrict the flow, but now it's fine ... and I haven't yet adjusted the Mira mixer (via the control screw on the back of the mixer) from LOW pressure to HIGH pressure .... it might be better still, or it might not?
I did do plenty research but I struck lucky with the company and the installers - they were diamonds and the pipework is as pretty as a picture. They didn't do a power wash but filled up with Adey cleaner and will return on Friday to flush out and refill with Adey inhibitor. I have dosed the system with Calchem Three In One at the rate of one litre annually for the past 10 years and the water is clear.
They fitted an Ideal HALO wireless programmable thermostat. There's just one cable feeding the boiler, a live neutral and earth from the consumer unit's dedicated circuit, via an FCU in the airing cupboard. It remains to be seen if I need a 60 watt tubular heater in there for use in the summer to dry the towels.. I haven't got a dual fuel towel rail in the bathroom.
The flue is via a tiled garage roof and they had a roofer attend for the slate and the internal flue is beautifully run. They used a laser device when installing much of the stuff and it shows. Its gorgeous (if pipework can be gorgeous.)
I've spent literally years on here trying to discern the best (for us) system (perhaps not every single day) - thanks muchly to those who have advised (the vast majority for the better, one or two perhaps ever so slightly less so, Bernard
). I hope the stainless HEX pays dividends and hope I don't need to find out how good Ideal's customer service is.Thanks again.
Last edited:
Looking just now at the MIs, it shows overrun (test) for the DHW but none for the CH.
Also, have you ever found out anything about the great mystery of the boiler Efficiency Level display?
Fully open all DHW taps in turn and ensure that water
flows freely.
Reduce the DHW draw off rate to about 3 l/min and check
that the boiler modulates to deliver DHW at approximately
65°C (with the DHW temperature control knob set to
maximum).
Close the DHW tap and check that the main burner
extinguishes. The pump will overrun for 60 seconds while
the fan overruns for 10 seconds.
Also, have you ever found out anything about the great mystery of the boiler Efficiency Level display?
Fully open all DHW taps in turn and ensure that water
flows freely.
Reduce the DHW draw off rate to about 3 l/min and check
that the boiler modulates to deliver DHW at approximately
65°C (with the DHW temperature control knob set to
maximum).
Close the DHW tap and check that the main burner
extinguishes. The pump will overrun for 60 seconds while
the fan overruns for 10 seconds.
Thanks for the reply ... in answer to the questiom - no I haven't.
I have to be totally honest and say I've paid a firm to instal it and won't be doing the procedure outlined above.
I can hear that it runs on for a sensible length of time after both heating and hot water operations, that's all I need to know. Haven't distinguished between the burner continuing to fire after the call for heat has passed - or if it's just the fan. It turns off after a reasonable length of time, I'll settle for that.
I do know it's darn quiet. It's in the garage so doesn't matter how noisy it might have been but it's reassuring to know if it had gone in the airing cupboard it would have probably been fine. I didn't want it in there for a couple of reasons, one being I didn't want to risk the boiler buzzing/reverberating on the plasterboard stud wall to which it would have been fixed in the airing cupboard. Some here suggested it might have done, others disagreed. It's now right out of the way (as was the boiler it replaced) and the airing cupboard has been freed up for storage and a spot of towel warming.
I honestly don't know how well it will or won't condense, the existing pipework and rads remain, it'd not got an outside sensor and I don't think it's opentherm facility is in use. I remain in a degree of ignorance, for better or worse. But I've voluntarily done quite a lot of work associated with the installation in the loft, garage and airing cupboard and my age is starting to show - I'm tired and hot and am content to settle for what we've got.
I have to be totally honest and say I've paid a firm to instal it and won't be doing the procedure outlined above.
I can hear that it runs on for a sensible length of time after both heating and hot water operations, that's all I need to know. Haven't distinguished between the burner continuing to fire after the call for heat has passed - or if it's just the fan. It turns off after a reasonable length of time, I'll settle for that.
I do know it's darn quiet. It's in the garage so doesn't matter how noisy it might have been but it's reassuring to know if it had gone in the airing cupboard it would have probably been fine. I didn't want it in there for a couple of reasons, one being I didn't want to risk the boiler buzzing/reverberating on the plasterboard stud wall to which it would have been fixed in the airing cupboard. Some here suggested it might have done, others disagreed. It's now right out of the way (as was the boiler it replaced) and the airing cupboard has been freed up for storage and a spot of towel warming.
I honestly don't know how well it will or won't condense, the existing pipework and rads remain, it'd not got an outside sensor and I don't think it's opentherm facility is in use. I remain in a degree of ignorance, for better or worse. But I've voluntarily done quite a lot of work associated with the installation in the loft, garage and airing cupboard and my age is starting to show - I'm tired and hot and am content to settle for what we've got.