isolating switches for new kitchen sockets

sebastianbawn said:
Thankyou once again! Yes each appliance will have a single socket, and a double switched socket as a spur.
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I think you mean a DP switch.

Most the info I read about no double sockets was on the iet forum.
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Yes, There are several extremely knowledgeable people on there - as you would expect - but there are others too.

Thanks I will purchase a 47mm back box. My understanding is that the ring main will enter switch one, then connect to switch 2 by the neutral and live wires only then again from switch 2 to 3 and finally rejoin the ring circuit from ring 3 with earth.
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Yes.

The earth's will be looped to the back box and into their corresponding terminals.
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There will be no earth connection on the switches.
Just connect together the earth wires on the ring in and ring out and the earth wires in the socket and three appliance socket cables.
If that is too many for the terminal in the backbox put them all in a connector block with another wire to the back box (and the faceplate if it is metal)
 
Aah a terminal block makes sense.thank you at least I know what to purchase now.really appreciate all of your help
Regards
Seb
 
If you are using a grid switch you cannot/ should not connect them as part of a RF the switches are 20a the OPD is 32A (n)
I have a grid arrangement on a 20a 4mm radial supplying 4 non switched sockets.

Dave
 
The current won't actually be going through the 20a switches though. A single grid switch is the same as adding a socket.a socket is classed as a 13a p socket but is still wired into a 32 a RF
 
If the current is not going through the grid switch how does the appliance get it's power ?

Dave
 
The grid switch to an unswitched socket and 13amp plug is the same as having a fused connection unit, I thino I interpreted that correctly, which is acceptable
 
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