Bod ignore those taking the pi ss I’m sure it will look great when it’s finished .
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Deleted member 294929
Dont come on ere stuttering your snobbery.
This ain't bloody Hertfordshire yer know.
This was all hand crafted from scratch with reclaimed materials.
Gord knows what you think of the coffee table.
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Deleted member 294929
Exactly. ....
I'm not sure as yet my next step. I may connect it to the central heating or run an antique shower rose off the end.
Yes dry your wet jackets at the same time.
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Amazing what people will pay. Ever seen "money for nothing"? People pay silly amounts for arty crap.
The arty farty geezer seems to have glued the joints.
You could use electronic solder (and maybe an electric clamp type solder-melter). You get very neat joints. Or paste but iirc that's very expensive.
You could have fun with microbore soft copper, using the plier-type bender rather than the lever one, cos it gets in better. Much cheaper than fittings!
You misunderstand - this is not taking the pee, this is fraternal appreciation - here's my curtain rail:
Attachments
I'll be honest - I think the nuts and bolts on the coffee table legs lets it down...
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Deleted member 294929
I have actually patented this design.
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Is the gallows next door?
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Deleted member 294929
The Richardsons.
D
Deleted member 294929
And we do.
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Just musin,,, if you got some rollers turned up (wood would do) or filled the pipe full of sand, and got bending right, you could do well making curtain rails for bay windows.
If you have a pillar drill you could use it as a press. Move the pipe back and forth over two padded wood blocks a foot or two apart, and press down in the middle with another padded block, a few millimeters. It would spring back of course, but without the padding you could use the setup to measure the deflection. Match the radius of curve with that of the bay .
where is chord length, h is deflection.
So if you have a 4m bay with 2 foot of depth, you need to set a half inch of deflection with your blocks 600mm apart. Ish.
if you wanted to do posh, and avoid problems with the corrosion of the copper, you could use chromed tube and munsens.
If you have a pillar drill you could use it as a press. Move the pipe back and forth over two padded wood blocks a foot or two apart, and press down in the middle with another padded block, a few millimeters. It would spring back of course, but without the padding you could use the setup to measure the deflection. Match the radius of curve with that of the bay .
where is chord length, h is deflection.
So if you have a 4m bay with 2 foot of depth, you need to set a half inch of deflection with your blocks 600mm apart. Ish.
if you wanted to do posh, and avoid problems with the corrosion of the copper, you could use chromed tube and munsens.
i 100% love the use off materials for"interesting"and other uses and a coat rail is brilliant
bbbbuuuttt just keep in mind the screws are likely to be no6 or 7 or 3.5mm in those brackets and the load will be perhaps 50-100% times the weight off pipe and water so top screw is a weak point so perhaps a drill out to 4-4.5mm and brown plug would be safer
but just my thoughts
bbbbuuuttt just keep in mind the screws are likely to be no6 or 7 or 3.5mm in those brackets and the load will be perhaps 50-100% times the weight off pipe and water so top screw is a weak point so perhaps a drill out to 4-4.5mm and brown plug would be safer
but just my thoughts