Just realised I may be doing drills wrong?

The triangular shafts are less prone to slip than the round ones and fit a standard chuck just fine. The number of fully round drill bits I have with galling and grooves on the shaft here it has slipped in the chuck is too many.
Ok, so why do they say then that SDS ones can't be used? Aren't they essentially carved into like these triangular ones?
 
SDS have an uneven dual lobe, that does not match at all to the three way lobe of a conventional drill chuck.

This page shows the cross section of the chuck portion of an sds drill bit, note how it is impossible to get an even grab with a three jaw chuck.
 
I will say one thing that this does make me think of though... that frequently when I drilled into masonry, I'd find that if I set the drill to impact it would get to a point where the chuck would stop spinning. And I'd have to go the regular torque setting to have it work again and ultimately to get the hole drilled much more slowly.

I think you overlooked my comment on this - if your clutch is not re-engaging when the motor stops and is restarted and you have to switch it to the torque (non impact) setting then the drill is faulty.
 
You can put SDS+ bits in a normal chuck, I do in my cordless, but they are tricky to centre up and get no wobble.
Yes, I sometimes do this when I have to drill light masonry with my combi drill, but I don't have a suitable size of smooth shank masonry bit to hand.

The thing is, an SDS bit costs more than a conventional bit, whilst delivering no advantages to the OP. A non-SDS impact drill, such as that the OP owns, just doesn't have the impact power that an SDS drill has
 
Back
Top