LED replacement bulbs too dim

I think your original lamps may have been producing sufficient light but the optics look likely to be much wider than the 38 degree beam angle you need. Even if the optics on the LED do something like that, there is a diffuser on the front which would spread the light out again. The final lamp you found appears to be a COB design with better optics for a spot. Less light overall, but perhaps more light where you want it. Of course the Integral LEDs might not be producing the lumens they state, or may not function well on your transformers.

LED colours are not always consistent even within a particular brand. 2700K is typically closer to a regular incandescent than a halogen. LED "warm white" is typically closer to halogen white than incandescent white, but not always. Warm white LEDs do have a colour balance that is more "yellow" than incandescents or halogens even when the colour temperature is identical. The traditional lamps have more orange and red and less yellow and blue than the LEDs. There is never an exact match without buying prohibitively expensive lamps, just look for the ones you like best. Some look pinkish, especially with the cooler whites, some seem excessively yellow. Colour problems are accentuated with spots because they tend to shine directly on the things you look at rather than getting bounced around the room and "evened out" on different surfaces. Cheaper LED spots may also show colour fringes because the blue LED and yellow phosphor are different sizes and emit in different beam patterns.
 
Just a final thought about the remaining flickering light... Would an alternative to 333rocky333's suggestion of the constant voltage driver (see above) be to simply add a small resistive load in parallel with the LED - say, a 5w car bulb (which could be concealed in the ceiling)? It shouldn't take much (perhaps only a 2w bulb would be needed?) as the other LEDs don't flicker.
 
Just a final thought about the remaining flickering light... Would an alternative to 333rocky333's suggestion of the constant voltage driver (see above) be to simply add a small resistive load in parallel with the LED - say, a 5w car bulb (which could be concealed in the ceiling)? It shouldn't take much (perhaps only a 2w bulb would be needed?) as the other LEDs don't flicker.
Did you mean in parallel? A convenient load would be a 20W MR16 bulb ... except that maybe defeats the purpose.
 
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A better plan that may work , depending on how close your lights are, would be too use ONE of your existing transformers to actually output to two of the fittings.

Why do you say 2 watt, your likely to have 20watt minimum load transformers, so possibly more needed.
Why the other 5watt ones are stable is a bit of a mystery.
Im assuming your not running them via a dimmer switch
 
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No, not running via a dimmer switch (these LEDs are not dimmable). I suggested 2w since, as the other LEDs are ok, perhaps it only needs a very slight increase in load (5w to 7w) to stop the flickering on this one? Maybe it will need more? It was just an idea!

I'll give it a try when I have a spare moment, which may not be for a few days.
 
At the time, I read "in series". It doesn't look like it has been edited since. Maybe I read wrong.
Ah - I think I see.

It always did say 'parallel', so when you said "Did you mean in parallel?", it looked as if you were questioning the suggestion that it should be in parallel, not questioning something else because you thought it should be in parallel.
 
Instead of parallel say daisy chained. Daisy chained lamps can be connected in parallel or can be connected in series.

Daisy chained, parallel or daisy chained series.

( accepting that some people may not know what a daisy chain is ),
 
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