Lockout Worcester heatslave 15/19

One little point Mike, if I may.....you’ll notice the pump is secured to the motor with 3 allen screws.
Make sure they aren’t too tight - on occasion they cause the motor / pump coupling to bind.
You should find a capacitor without too many problems - our local jewson has an excellent plumbing and heating section that has all we need, in the absence of heating parts shops.
John :)
 
I will try my best tomorrow, my multimeter didn't have capacitance testing so still don't know for sure ,
Will check grub screws arnt too tight .
Is it normal for the oil pump to be hot when running ?
 
Yes, the pump will be hot, but not so hot that you can fry chips on it :eek:
Just a couple of points......a new pump won’t be set at the correct working pressure so thats why a flue gas analysis and pressure gauge is really needed. Pressure gauges are cheap at around the £20 mark, FGA’s are very expensive and require calibration every year and often enough, a new oxygen sensor every 2.
Capacitors often show burn marks or bulging, even leakage of they are about to go awol but its a good move to replace it anyway.
If I’m testing a motor on the bench I try to stop it turning with my fingers.....I’ve had a few where they spun up ok but had no real power.
Hope you get it sorted real soon!
John :)
 
I am watching as also have a problem with boiler failing to fire up. I decided not to DIY, and got a oil boiler guy out to service and repair, been going on now over a year. Step one was clean and replace jets and set pump pressures, then remove inlet air pipe to test if problem with balanced flue, then he replace the solenoid valve, stem and coil, waiting for him to return to change ignition coil.

It has some thing to do with heat, as if I turn down water temperature it does not happen as often, it is not that often, may be once a week, it has never failed while the guy is here. Smells of fuel when it has failed.

But the guy is good in that if the repair does not work he takes the stuff back and I am not charged, so it is likely costing me less to get him to repair it than DIY. Problem is boiler is in the flat under the house, so when it fails I have to go outside, down some steps and into flat to reset, not some thing I want to do at night. And I can only just hear it running, so don't realise when it has failed until house cold.

It has never run A1 since we have had the house, and when we moved in the wiring was faulty as well, so fault could have been there for years, as it seems last owners did not use central heating.
 
I’m looking at an interesting issue as we speak, again an oil boiler.
It has been perfect for years and gets a full service and fga / pressure check every 12 months.
It has locked out twice in the last month for reasons unknown - once on Christmas morning :eek:
It only locks out if the boiler cabinet door is shut - its fine otherwise. It gets its combustion air from the room and that hasn’t changed in any way.
Oil pressure and fga is as it always was so why its complaining I’m not sure, but I’m leaving well alone just now!
John :)
 
ericmark said:
I am watching as also have a problem with boiler failing to fire up. I decided not to DIY, and got a oil boiler guy out to service and repair, been going on now over a year. Step one was clean and replace jets and set pump pressures, then remove inlet air pipe to test if problem with balanced flue, then he replace the solenoid valve, stem and coil, waiting for him to return to change ignition coil.

It has some thing to do with heat, as if I turn down water temperature it does not happen as often, it is not that often, may be once a week, it has never failed while the guy is here. Smells of fuel when it has failed.

But the guy is good in that if the repair does not work he takes the stuff back and I am not charged, so it is likely costing me less to get him to repair it than DIY. Problem is boiler is in the flat under the house, so when it fails I have to go outside, down some steps and into flat to reset, not some thing I want to do at night. And I can only just hear it running, so don't realise when it has failed until house cold.

It has never run A1 since we have had the house, and when we moved in the wiring was faulty as well, so fault could have been there for years, as it seems last owners did not use central heating.
Click to expand...


I would be changing the EBI and coil. The two parts together cost less than a return visit.


Burnerman said:
I’m looking at an interesting issue as we speak, again an oil boiler.
It has been perfect for years and gets a full service and fga / pressure check every 12 months.
It has locked out twice in the last month for reasons unknown - once on Christmas morning :eek:
It only locks out if the boiler cabinet door is shut - its fine otherwise. It gets its combustion air from the room and that hasn’t changed in any way.
Oil pressure and fga is as it always was so why its complaining I’m not sure, but I’m leaving well alone just now!
John :)
Click to expand...
 
Does the voltage matter , I managed to get a 4 uf capacitor but is 250v , is this okay ?

Got a new pump also , and found a boiler engineer that will tune it for me .
 
I am not charged for a return visit, only for parts, which he provides so assume there is some mark up. Which brings me to @Mike15/19 if you provide the parts, and they go faulty, you are going to have to pay out again for the guy to come and set it up. Simply not worth it, let him provide the parts. I am an electrician and I could DIY, but some times you have to accept there are jobs where DIY is not worth it.
 
I really can't understand anyone putting up with a failing boiler for a year. Oil burners aren't rocket science and if the burner is really old and needs many parts, a replacement burner is often more cost effective.
John, if your boiler cuts out with the door closed, then it is getting flue leakage from somewhere, maybe flange gasket or a flue seal. A run round with an analyser would soon find it.
 
The problem is getting it to go wrong when the repair man is here, each time some thing is done, it runs for a month, then trips again, so each time think cured, until a month latter. Slowly getting worse down to once a week now. I suspect ignition coil.
 
oilhead said:
John, if your boiler cuts out with the door closed, then it is getting flue leakage from somewhere, maybe flange gasket or a flue seal. A run round with an analyser would soon find it.
Click to expand...

As it is a conventionally flued boiler. If the air supply was sufficiently vitiated to cause the boiler to lock out I am sure someone would have complained about the smell.!!…..Or Co poisoning !!
 
It's a bit of a mystery Terry but I'm not diving in when the temperature is -11c :eek:
It's my own ancient boiler, a Panda 55 with an Inter 10 burner, circa 1970? Anyway, it has never locked out randomly before and has a full service last Summer.
Two lock outs occurred, with immediate restart and of course I didn't witness the lockout anyway. I left the door open to keep an eye on things and it's been fine since.
FGA shows 11% CO, (oil pressure 110psi) and that is constant with the door open or shut. The boiler produces no smoke or smell and sounds just like it's always done.
I'm leaving well alone for now, unless I have to dive in - I'm just a bit puzzled!
John :)
 
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