Marples chisels £72
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
Ive not found those Irwin chisels to be the hardest steel. These days they seem to choose the steel so its not too brittle for the people who use them to open paint tins and prising off skirtings, door linings etc
If it was me Id buy some 2nd hand Stanley 5001s to sharpen to razor edge for fine woodwork, then some cheap crap chisels for demolition work etc
If it was me Id buy some 2nd hand Stanley 5001s to sharpen to razor edge for fine woodwork, then some cheap crap chisels for demolition work etc
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2016
- Messages
- 2,531
- Reaction score
- 582
- Country
Those chisels are not what they were. After J&K's comments on my posting way back I've since had a set in my hands and I have to agree with him.
Today I'd buy a small set from Screwfix*or Toolstation for general site work and look at Axminster for better quality work.
*I have a set of 3 of those bought about 5 years ago for use on site. Need frequent sharpening and keeping dry but to date have survived well. Don't know if the spec has changed in the intervening time.
Today I'd buy a small set from Screwfix*or Toolstation for general site work and look at Axminster for better quality work.
*I have a set of 3 of those bought about 5 years ago for use on site. Need frequent sharpening and keeping dry but to date have survived well. Don't know if the spec has changed in the intervening time.
These and get them ground down?
Job Lot of Vintage Stanley 5001 Woodwork Chisels (24) | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Job Lot of Vintage Stanley 5001 Woodwork Chisels (24) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2016
- Messages
- 2,531
- Reaction score
- 582
- Country
Well there is a good selection there - should last you a lifetime. And plenty of practise in Grinding and honing.
Buy your self a good honing guide and double sided diamond sharpening 'stone'.
Buy your self a good honing guide and double sided diamond sharpening 'stone'.
Won't that take you all day? I tried sandpaper and gave up. So I got myself a bench grinder for taking out materials faster.
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2016
- Messages
- 2,531
- Reaction score
- 582
- Country
If say that sandpaper is to coarse to get a decent home or grind; emery cloth is better but unless fixed to a solid flat surface and a fine grit (600+) no.better.
With bench grinder you need to keep the blade cold (frequent immersion in water) and the angle accurate. You still need a stone to put the final edge on.
No matter what grit, sand paper could not take material off fast enough before I got bored from lack of progress.
The grinder will be used for removing material all the way up to the chisel cutting edge but not on the edge. The edge can then be finished off with sand paper or stone.
The Axminster 2inch chisel is £138! For mortises I guess a 50mm 38mm, 25mm and one smaller would do then get a cheaper one for other sizes dunno
The Axminster 2inch chisel is £138! For latches, locks amd hinge recesses. I guess a 50mm 38mm, 25mm and one smaller (keep all sharp)would do.
I bought the set anyway and gonna have them. My lawnmower repair man ground my old chisels down but all to over 30 degrees not the usual 25. No micro bevel just one big bevel. Not sure what do about that lol bit they're sharp for now.
I'll hone my new chisels as j and k recommended 2 years ago.
Anyone recommended a strop for on the go? My mate said just the strop and no honing can sharpen the chisels.
Anyone recommend a strop?
Last edited:
You might be better off to buy one of these: https://seanhellman.com/product/sharp/
Marples Chisels are OK so long as you are not a professional joiner. I've got a set and bought the 2 inch chisel to go with it.
The chisels are pre ground to 25 degrees, which is the first bevel, you now need to introduce a secondary bevel or the cutting edge, the secondary bevel is formed at 30 degrees, for this you will need a honing guide.
There are many honing guides on the Market. Veritas make a very good Honing Guide about £70.
You could buy an Oil Stone for cutting the cutting edge, I prefer Whet Stones, I have 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000 grit, Whet Stones sharpen faster than Oil Stones.
Remember the back of the chisel, this needs to be flattened along with sharpening the secondary bevel.
There are some really good instructional videos on YouTube also.
You could also buy a leather strop if you want deathly sharp chisels.
Good luck.
The chisels are pre ground to 25 degrees, which is the first bevel, you now need to introduce a secondary bevel or the cutting edge, the secondary bevel is formed at 30 degrees, for this you will need a honing guide.
There are many honing guides on the Market. Veritas make a very good Honing Guide about £70.
You could buy an Oil Stone for cutting the cutting edge, I prefer Whet Stones, I have 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000 grit, Whet Stones sharpen faster than Oil Stones.
Remember the back of the chisel, this needs to be flattened along with sharpening the secondary bevel.
There are some really good instructional videos on YouTube also.
You could also buy a leather strop if you want deathly sharp chisels.
Good luck.
I've been told this ny j and k and know most of it but just to confirm, flattening will need to be done on all new chisels to remove all grooves And this isn't the process of quickly removing burr after a hone.
Flattening the back isn't a case of trying to get the back of the chisel completely flat or removing scratches, let me explain.
The back of most flat chisels have a shallow dish ground into them at the manufacturing stage.