Marples chisels £72

Flattening the back isn't a case of trying to get the back of the chisel completely flat or removing scratches, let me explain.

The back of most flat chisels have a shallow dish ground into them at the manufacturing stage.
Once you have honed the chisel to 30 degree you will create burrs on flat side of the chisel. At this stage you will need to remove the burrs by rubbing the back of the chisel upnand down the oil stone/ Whet stone.

What you should see is an area about 10-15mm deep at the sharp end of the chisel that will be shiny, you may have a shiny area near the handle as well but the middle section will be dull this is where the factory shallow dish has been ground, the purpose of this dish is so you can flatten the point of the chisel, this process means you should end up with a very sharp chisel.
 
Been practicing on a cheap block plane blade from b and q. First tried to flatten back doing circular motion on 320, 400 then 600 wet and dry then polished on Waterstone 1000 then 6000. Still some small scratches and seems to take ages. Dunno if took enough off then onto secondary bevel using Veritas jig. Amazing piece of kit through the same wet and dry then onto Waterstone. Then bought a strop, dragged the beveled end with wax on strop ten times then flat side then strop turned over and same again.

Definitely quite sharp as I used block plane on one of my doors. Nice slithers.

How many backwards and forwards on each surface?

Waterstone was immersed in water for ten minutes before and now wrapped in wet cloth for few weeks.

Plan to shoot doors just with just block plane. Electric one takes too much off. Plan to keep a few blades in a chisel wrap.

Can you strop and not hone an edge throughout the day to keep it sharp? (Someone told me this.)
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Can you strop and not hone an edge throughout the day to keep it sharp? (Someone told me this.)
IMO yes, people oversharpen chisels, a few strokes is sufficient, sometimes flattening the back is enough

Bluo
 
Marples Chisels are OK so long as you are not a professional joiner. I've got a set and bought the 2 inch chisel to go with it.

The chisels are pre ground to 25 degrees, which is the first bevel, you now need to introduce a secondary bevel or the cutting edge, the secondary bevel is formed at 30 degrees, for this you will need a honing guide.

There are many honing guides on the Market. Veritas make a very good Honing Guide about £70.
You could buy an Oil Stone for cutting the cutting edge, I prefer Whet Stones, I have 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000 grit, Whet Stones sharpen faster than Oil Stones.

Remember the back of the chisel, this needs to be flattened along with sharpening the secondary bevel.

There are some really good instructional videos on YouTube also.

You could also buy a leather strop if you want deathly sharp chisels.

Good luck.
I bought the veritas guide. On my plane blade set to 25 degrees but adjusted knob on bottom right to six o'clock secondary bevel. Do you do the same for chisels?
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