Months Of DIY Work Destroyed In 2 Days...

Spuggy1uk said:
Back home from work, couple more pics as it's drying out...

Chap at work mentioned it could be possible to chisle out the worst of the thick plaster in the curved corners, then sand, fill, sand, fill until it was right?

Only exploring options until a second plasterer comes round to give his/her opinion for any further action.
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I am a decorator, not a plasterer.

Plaster will blunt chisels very quickly.

You could use a decent random orbital sander with 40 grit paper but you will need to tilt the sander into the corner to eliminate the excess plaster.

Far from ideal though. Not only will the plaster need to be dry, you will burn through abrasives and need a decent dust extractor (connected to the sander).

A concrete grinder will be much faster- but very expensive. There is also the risk of removing too much and bursting through the paper skin on the plasterboard.

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Festool Surface-restoration grinders RG 130 ECI-Plus 230V RENOFIX ➜ Unlimited power for consistently high removal rate ✔ Hardly any dust: Good for your health. And for your customers. ✔ Powerful and reliable thanks to the EC-TEC motor ✔ All information directly from the manufacturer ➨...
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I have an older version of the above which used toothed wheels rather than a disk. Some wheels would work with plaster, others worked with render.

I feel your pain.

I hope the new plasterer is able to offer up a workable solution.

Best of luck.
 
what conditions were made explicit in the contract that you both signed......ah..forgot, contracts are for mugs...right!!!
 
opps said:
I am a decorator, not a plasterer.

Plaster will blunt chisels very quickly.

You could use a decent random orbital sander with 40 grit paper but you will need to tilt the sander into the corner to eliminate the excess plaster.

Far from ideal though. Not only will the plaster need to be dry, you will burn through abrasives and need a decent dust extractor (connected to the sander).

A concrete grinder will be much faster- but very expensive. There is also the risk of removing too much and bursting through the paper skin on the plasterboard.

Festool Surface-restoration grinders RG 130 ECI-Plus 230V RENOFIX online

Festool Surface-restoration grinders RG 130 ECI-Plus 230V RENOFIX ➜ Unlimited power for consistently high removal rate ✔ Hardly any dust: Good for your health. And for your customers. ✔ Powerful and reliable thanks to the EC-TEC motor ✔ All information directly from the manufacturer ➨...
www.festool.co.uk www.festool.co.uk

I have an older version of the above which used toothed wheels rather than a disk. Some wheels would work with plaster, others worked with render.

I feel your pain.

I hope the new plasterer is able to offer up a workable solution.

Best of luck.
Click to expand...
Very helpful , thank you.
 
That's appalling. I hope you get some redress against them. is there sonewhere you can leave reviews, so that other people don't employ them?

Fingerrs crossed that the new plasterer thinks it can be remedied without ripping it all out.
 
Plasterer No.2 coming around tomorrow to confirm the state of walls, tolerances, etc (in case of future problems with plasterer No.1), and see if we can tidy anything up as it is. We'll ask him to give a price on the remaining untouched bare plasterboard walls and ceiling too (the 'walls from hell' are only a 1/3 of the total job). Hopefully, be able to hire a surface grinder for the weekend (as recommended by @opps a few posts above).
 
Dont orbit sand it. Get a long straight edge, get some bonding plaster, fill in the curves, leave for 15 min and scrap off the excess and trowel it down - then reskim. Its difficult to say whether the plasterboard was put in incorrectly or whether the plasterers bodged it up. If the plasterboard was done incorrectly, they should have told you and fixed it with some bonding before doing a skim.
 
omph said:
Dont orbit sand it. Get a long straight edge, get some bonding plaster, fill in the curves, leave for 15 min and scrap off the excess and trowel it down - then reskim. Its difficult to say whether the plasterboard was put in incorrectly or whether the plasterers bodged it up. If the plasterboard was done incorrectly, they should have told you and fixed it with some bonding before doing a skim.
Click to expand...
Cheers. The plasterboard was indeed done correctly which is why I was looking into sanding it down. If the plasterboard wasn't straight and plumb, with this amount of sanding I'd be through the paper face of the board and into the next room!

Plasterer No.2 came around yesterday and seemed genuinely disgusted with the job. He's a local chap with lots of work, but had never heard of 'plasterer' No.1. He has suggested gritting and reskimming the lot. He would have to redo all the corner beading so we keep our straight lines (for subsequent floor boarding).

He gave the wife a list of jobs I could do (I was at work), to keep the costs down. These included digging out gash corners he identified, knocking out the bellcasts at the bottoms of the walls, applying the grit and replacing two boarded window reveals which are too wonky to salvage. He also asked if I'd be happy to knock off the Thistle Hardwall the 1st 'plasterer' put in the fireplace (max temp 49 degrees!) so he can apply a compliant fire-rated finish.
 
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