Motorcycle Wiring..

transam · 22 Aug 2021

I had 2 T140 s
A T160 trident
2 x tritons with 650 pre unit engines 6T and T110 the 110 i fitted a morgo conversion

350 royal Enfield clipper ( (1956)

than a weslake or NRE 8 valve engine in a Norton wide line that had a triumph gear box

all I have now is 71 SS commando 750

Harry Bloomfield · 22 Aug 2021

Keithmac said:
I'm looking into doing a solid state conversion for the charging regulator (field winding control) and rewiring the start side.

The usual method was to simply short out or voltage limit the output, with a regulator.

Keithmac · 22 Aug 2021

Harry Bloomfield said:
The usual method was to simply short out or voltage limit the output, with a regulator.

I don't know if that would burn the windings out though?, interesting idea!.

So you just run battery voltage to the rotor and wire a "normal" 3 phase regulator to the 3 outputs?.

Majority of bikes I work on are magnetic flywheel and 3 phase stator windings with a regulator/rectifier.

Harry Bloomfield · 23 Aug 2021

Keithmac said:
I don't know if that would burn the windings out though?, interesting idea!.

So you just run battery voltage to the rotor and wire a "normal" 3 phase regulator to the 3 outputs?.

Majority of bikes I work on are magnetic flywheel and 3 phase stator windings with a regulator/rectifier.

All from memory of my Honda VFR 750. It had a 3ph rectifier, which then fed the 'regulator', then on to the battery. The regulator simply limited the voltage to the battery by shorting out the surplus current/ voltage. The 'regulator' would become quite hot and it's heatsink was clamped to the frame, but hidden under the side fairing, with not much cooling air flow. Due to the heat stress, it was a regular point of failure, with various fixes devised, including adding extra heat sinking, adding fans resiting etc.. I added more heat sinking and devised a duct to channel air flow through the area.

Keithmac · 23 Aug 2021

Harry Bloomfield said:
All from memory of my Honda VFR 750. It had a 3ph rectifier, which then fed the 'regulator', then on to the battery. The regulator simply limited the voltage to the battery by shorting out the surplus current/ voltage. The 'regulator' would become quite hot and it's heatsink was clamped to the frame, but hidden under the side fairing, with not much cooling air flow. Due to the heat stress, it was a regular point of failure, with various fixes devised, including adding extra heat sinking, adding fans resiting etc.. I added more heat sinking and devised a duct to channel air flow through the area.

Ah, that's a different system to the Buccaneer unfortunately, Hondas with the permanent magnet rotor and 3 phase windings did used to eat regulators.

They do a Mosfet regulator now that you can retrofit to earlier 3 phase bikes, much better system. Instead of shorting the windings like the original design they just take what they need from the stator (similar to a Switch Mode transformer vs the old wire wound ones).

Keithmac · 24 Aug 2021

All back in one piece, properly wired with separate circuits and fuses for speedo and lighting (both available from factory fusebox..).

Found the "smoking gun", speedo cable poorly secured and earthing out though brake disk!.

If it was wired properly it should have just popped instrument fuse, because they couldn't be bothered it basically stranded the bike with no possibility of re-starting!.

As it stands now if either lighting or speedo dead shorts it will blow it's own fuse and bike will still run (redundancy).

For sake of another hour they could have wired it properly (but looking at the mess I don't think they could tbh)..