Newly installed Combi/Megaflo and Immersion heaters

Ok. Why do you think it says n/a on the boiler when I try to adjust the hot water dial? Any way I can change this?

I don't know the specifics of your boiler, but usually the HW dial is only for combi boilers. The CH dial controls the temperature for both heating and the HW cylinder.

If your programmer for HW is on and the thermostat is above the current HW temperature, the HW zone valve should open and the boiler should fire.
 
I don't know the specifics of your boiler, but usually the HW dial is only for combi boilers. The CH dial controls the temperature for both heating and the HW cylinder.

If your programmer for HW is on and the thermostat is above the current HW temperature, the HW zone valve should open and the boiler should fire.
This makes sense! I will get up into the loft tomorrow and see if this sorts it. Thank you so much for the advice. I am a plumbing ****** and all help is greatly appreciated
 
System is connected with the pipework, by the look of it, but some of the workmanship is questionable. Mix of copper and plastic, and the Pressure relief for the cylinder doesn't look very substantial. This is a critical safety device, and only operates under fault conditions, but if/when it does, chances are it will be discharging steam and/or boiling water, so needs to be capable of handling the same, and not dump it through the ceiling below....

HW issue I would suspect is an electrical problem. If it's not been wired up correctly, then that could be the cause of your problems. The motorised valve needs to operate on a signal from the cylinder stat, once the valve powers open it triggers a microswitch to power up the boiler and pump.

Stat on the boiler adjusts the temperature of the water leaving the boiler, it wont directly affect the hot water temperature. This is controlled by a separate stat on the Megaflo, which as said previously, needs to be set around the 60deg C mark to prevent Legionella bacteria from forming.
 
Potential problems are....

Hot water circuit should be all copper (metal) throughout circuit.

Discharge pipework should be capable of handling boiling water and be (at least) one size larger than the PRV outlets. It should also conform to specific bends and distances away from PRV(s) and tundish.

The recirculation pump (yellow in the photos) should have some control over timing of its activation. Looks to currently be wired to be constantly running which will add to your electricity consumption and will shorten its life and will deplete your HW if pipes are not lagged.
 
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