Oil filter has no bypass valve

Well interesting! Direct injection, looking at the piston. I'd guess these are directly water cooled and hand start?
Presumably this engine was designed to run on canals, being a wet sumper - unless the sump was heavily baffled.
What RPM are we looking at?
Thanks for posting this - I love the old stuff, it reminds me of my classic dumper!
John :)

Trouble is, it SOUNDS like a classic dumper too! To be fair, there were a lot of clever ideas in it. Yes, direct injection, but electric start, albeit with a hand start backup. (And good luck with that on a cold morning)! However, because of the accessibility in a boat, the hand starter hand to be done from the front of the engine. It went on to the end of the cam shaft, but that didn't give enough of a step-up in speed, so the cam actually turns at 1/4 engine speed, rather than half, giving it a 4:1 step-up when hand cranking. This meant two inlet and two exhaust lobes on the cam, (180 degrees apart) even though it was a single cylinder.

Raw water cooled (which will be the death of all of them in the long run. I've already had to replace the head, because it rusted through between the water jacket and the inlet port). Designed for seagoing boats, it can run at a maximum heel angle of 25 degrees continuously. 528cc 7.5kW (10 horse) at 3000 RPM. Also, a brushless alternator in the flywheel (though these were only 20A and almost all f them packed up. I've put an external one on ours - you just can't get spares for them any more.

 
Brilliant!
For the life of me, I wouldn’t have thought such a long stroke engine would be happy at a continuous 3000 rpm - I would have thought 2000 more realistic.
I can imagine the havoc salt water would have caused with the engine internals - a great advert for keel cooling.
Thanks for sharing!
John :)
 
Got my answer finally. Was waiting for the crush washer to arrive from china. Previously the garage put in a MAHLE OC217 filter. It has a bypass valve where expected. The Bosch one is either fake or cr*p. Since the the old filter looks brand new after been on the car for 2 years, I put that back in.

Everything was a huge struggle on the Japanese car. Took me hours to work out how to use the dipstick. The factory service info was wrong. I put in 3 litres as spec'ed and had to extract half a litre out to get the level right. I think the japanese deliberately make it difficult for people to DIY on their cars.
 
The K11 and K12 Micra were made in Sunderland - you’d be hard pushed to find a more owner friendly car.
Did you really source the crush washer from China?
John :)
 
Japanese designed car with all the associated BS. They couldn't even state simply a torque spec without making a meal of it. They give a range. WTF is that about? Do I toque using a lucky dip approach to chose one from the range?

Yes, I source tools and parts directly from china. I am in no hurry. Sometimes, things come quickly in a couple of weeks. Sometimes, not. I was planing to do the service in June. But the washer arrived early with my other order of a battery analyser. I was dying to know how my 18 year old battery was doing. Disappointed it only had 15% life left.
 
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I'm kind-of half-amused, half-exasperated, and half-fascinated at how much of a meal someone can make out of doing an oil change on a Micra! Like a slow-motion train crash, I find myself irresistibly drawn to it, yet not really wanting to watch. There must be spotty-faced youths in Kwik Fit who can do an oil change on a Micra in less time that it's even taken you to type these posts!

Anyway... if it makes you happy...:rolleyes:

For what it's worth, specifying a range for tightening torque is standard engineering practice. They're not an exact science. In fact, they're a pretty rubbish way of specifying a clamping force, but the equipment is cheap, widely-available, and familiar. You can, indeed, take a "lucky dip" approach between the limits specified and the finished item should function correctly. They could specify an exact value to 15 decimal places, but what would that achieve? The objective is, presumably, to have the oil not come out and the filter not to fall off. Why add cost and complexity where none is required?
 
Good call concerning the torque settings!
Personally I give all the trade I possibly can to my local motor factors......employment, over the counter knowledge, fewer Amazon vehicles or whatever. They reward me with a considerable discount and will also deliver to me if I'm pushed.
John :)
 
Good call concerning the torque settings!
Personally I give all the trade I possibly can to my local motor factors......employment, over the counter knowledge, fewer Amazon vehicles or whatever. They reward me with a considerable discount and will also deliver to me if I'm pushed.
John :)
My dad was the same. He's in his 80s now, and doesn't really do much on cars any more, but when he was working as an independent mechanic, he was very loyal to them and they, in turn, looked after him in the manner you describe.
 
Just because any cowboy can do an oil change doesn't mean they do a good job. The last cowboy who did the oil change on the car probably didn't have a crush washer and so he used an impact gun to crush the old washer. I had to undo the sump plug with a breaker bar.

If any toque in a rage is good then it's waste of ink to print a range. It's done for no other reason than obfuscation. It seem oil capacity isn't a science to them either. So they print 3L when it can only take 2.5L.
 
3L when it can only take 2.5L.
3L will be the capacity for a brand new, never oiled before engine, or one that's been totally stripped down and rebuilt.

An engine that's previously had oil in it and drained will always have some oil left in it, plus a certain amount of dirt/sediment, particularly if its 20+ years old.
The amount required to fill it will therefore be less than the specification.
 
Just because any cowboy can do an oil change doesn't mean they do a good job. The last cowboy who did the oil change on the car probably didn't have a crush washer and so he used an impact gun to crush the old washer. I had to undo the sump plug with a breaker bar.

And this, from the guy who leaves the same oil and filter for 10 years...:rolleyes:

No matter how gently I do up a sump plug, it needs more torque to undo it a year later. It doesn't necessarily mean it was done up with an impact gun. Mind you, I'm such a "cowboy" that I do have to admit that the aluminium sump plug washer on my car is getting near the end of its life at 33 years old. I'll probably replace it with a Dowty washer when the time comes.

If any toque in a rage is good then it's waste of ink to print a range. It's done for no other reason than obfuscation.
Don't be silly. Most tightening torques are specified as a range. There's a top and bottom limit that's determined by people who know a lot more than you about these things, and provided you stick within those limits, the joint will function as intended. If they'd specified a single number with no tolerance, you'd just as likely have come on here whining that they were being far more exacting than the situation demanded.

It seem oil capacity isn't a science to them either. So they print 3L when it can only take 2.5L.
Most engines are like that, to a greater or a lesser extent. That's what dipsticks are for.
 
We don't only get cowboys in garages, also on the internet. Cowboys defending cowboys!

My criticism isn't baseless. Everything I have seen so far tells me japanese manufacturers hate it for people to do DIY. Something as simple as an ordinary car user's manual cannot be found on the internet. I have access to a paper copy. For convenience, I thought I'd get a copy off the internet. Nope, not a sausage, they swept it clean. It's all a pattern of putting obstacles in front of DIY'ers.

capacity.png


The dipstick they use is designed to drag oil around in the tube to contaminate the read, and it's almost useless for seeing clear new oil. In contrast, a proper matt-finish dipstick works with not the slightest problem, every time, new oil or old oil. Again, it's a designed obstacle. I am not used to an engine with random capacity depending on the time of day or day of month. It's quite a system shock to me.

dipstick1.png
dipstick2.png


It's my choice how I service the car. But, a paid garage should follow the manufacturer's instructions, or have the decency to state to the customers: we are cowboys, and do random stuff.
 
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We don't only get cowboys in garages, also on the internet. Cowboys defending cowboys!

My criticism isn't baseless. Everything I have seen so far tells me japanese manufacturers hate it for people to do DIY. Something as simple as an ordinary car user's manual cannot be found on the internet.

And that sweeping statement was based on a sample of how many Japanese manufacturers, exactly?

https://www.toyota.co.uk/customer/manuals

https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/manuals-and-guides/honda-owners-manuals-old.html

https://www.mazda.co.uk/owners/videos-and-manuals/

Just because Nissan choose not to, doesn't mean you should tar the rest of a country's manufacturers with the same brush! I'm sure there are some European manufacturers who choose not too, either.

I have access to a paper copy. For convenience, I thought I'd get a copy off the internet. Nope, not a sausage, they swept it clean. It's all a pattern of putting obstacles in front of DIY'ers.

View attachment 267637

NO manufacturer (Japanese or otherwise) wants to encourage DIY. And that's not just car manufacturers, either. There's nothing in it for them. That's just free market capitalism, my friend...

The dipstick they use is designed to drag oil around in the tube to contaminate the read, and it's almost useless for seeing clear new oil. In contrast, a proper matt-finish dipstick works with not the slightest problem, every time. Again, it's a designed obstacle. I am not used to an engine with random capacity depending on the time of day or day of month. It's quite a system shock to me.

View attachment 267641 View attachment 267642

Hmmmm.... and has this only started happening since they switched on the 5G network after people had been given their Covid jabs, or do you think it's been going on for longer than that...?:unsure: The one you show on the left is the same as my wife's late Nissan X-Trail. It always worked fine for me... The ones like the one on the right are ****e, once diesel engine oil has gone black. Who the hell thought a matt black dipstick was a good way of checking the level of black oil?! So far, I think the bright orange PSA ones are about the best.

It's my choice how I service the car. But, a paid garage should follow the manufacturer's instructions, or have the decency to state to the customers: we are cowboys, and do random stuff.
As already explained, sump plugs (in fact most threaded fasteners) don't come undone with the same torque as they went on. Can you even be certain that the last outfit to service the car was a "paid garage"?
 
Just because Nissan choose not to, doesn't mean you should tar the rest of a country's manufacturers with the same brush!

But, I should. Those manuals are up because they are obliged by law. I am sure anything older than 10 years are swept clean, although I am not going to waste my time confirming.


NO manufacturer (Japanese or otherwise) wants to encourage DIY.

Some manufacturers are less Narsi about it.


Who the hell thought a matt black dipstick was a good way of checking the level of black oil?

Someone with experience of cars. You are a bit suspect I think. Oil, no matter what colour or no colour at all, reflects light. Matt surface less so.


Can you even be certain that the last outfit to service the car was a "paid garage"?

Yes, they are paid very well. The online MOT history shows all the extra work they put into the car. They are remarkably keen on changing light bulbs.

The crushed washer was so thin, they must have gone berserk with the impact gun. With a new washer and correct torque, the "foldable" washer leaves 1 - 1.5mm gap on the plug.
 
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May I suggest your next car is a new Mini?
No dipstick there, drain plug or any service details......all of that is kept in the ignition key.
Japanese vehicles? Generally a joy to work on in my opinion.....quality fastenings, plated bolts and whatever. Not as good as they used to be when made in Japan but much better than French, for example.
John :)
 
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