I used a program which compensates when the cable is not at maximum rating, so maybe figures not spot on. I am unsure of the rules on shut down, as far as I am aware the shut down is to stop the supply being made live when some one is working on the system, so I would assume it needs a manual reset? The same with EV charging, using voltage to detect loss of PEN needs a manual reset.
This is it seems a major problem, as often the home user is unaware the system has tripped out until it is too late. i.e. come to use the car.
My house roof faces East/West and when I looked into solar panels it seems this can work out better as the output is for a longer time, but in my case it would not work as sun raises above the hill latter and sinks behind the hill earlier as we live in a valley, yes I know direct sun light not required, but coupled with three story house and problems with roof access not really a good idea.
The balance is assuming by the age of 90 either dead or in a old peoples home, it has to pay for its self in 20 years, really less on balance, want to be able to use the money it saves. Resale valve of house does not matter, as likely dead before it is sold, so want it really to pay for its self in 10 years.
The same with electric car, I do on average 10 miles a week, the electric bike is however a good idea as hobby is photography so I can park a bike easier than a car, and the electric bike allows me to get to places I want to take photos.
I have considered visitors, and want to build a garage, and having a 32 amp outlet and a charging lead
seems a good idea for when son or daughter visits once they have an electric car, would not buy the £280 lead until they get an EV, but having a 32 amp commando socket ready makes sense.
The same applies to solar panels, at the moment there is a large tree which casts a shadow on the garage roof, but neighbour who owns the tree has solar panels and I think he would like to see the tree gone. When building the new garage it may be a good idea to make it so solar panels can be used?
There is no reason why the voltage sensor should not be in the house, even when solar panels are remote, but it would depend on the normal voltage. If the normal voltage is 230 +/- 10 volt then the volt drop does not really present a problem, but I have seen in last house when suddenly the voltage changed, it was always on the high side, 240 - 250 volt then went to 225 - 235 volt, which was enough to stop my old fluorescent lamp working.
There is nothing to stop the DNO moving the tapping on the supply transformer, and as the load is increased with EV charging and heat pumps the voltage variation is likely to increase, they are allowed 207 to 253 volt and likely they will not replace supply cables while they can maintain supply within those limits.
Many years ago we saw a special consumer unit with an auto transformer built in, the idea was to drop the voltage when high so fluorescent lamps and the like did not use more power than required, the switch mode power supply removed the need for these devices, however it does introduce the need for surge protection devices instead. However if the reason for the auto disconnect was simply to stop over voltage then there are ways around the problem, but the reason is more to do with faults like loss of PEN, so you want the voltage monitor as close to the DNO supply as you can get it, I am sure one can design an inverter which has a remote voltage monitor, but can you design it and also get the type testing required to be able it use it?
When the RCD first came out we were told no electronics allowed as they may fail, but today they do have electronics, things move on, so having EV charge points or solar panels with remote voltage sensors may happen in the future.
And this is a problem when trying to think ahead, years ago before the take over I lived in Hong Kong, and I would write home daily using fax, the faster the fax worked the less it costs, so at home I had a fax machine which auto disconnected the phones to speed up the fax, and had double phone outlet sockets one supplied from fax machine, and one direct, so if the fax machine was unplugged I could move plug and still use phone, it worked well.
However when broad band came in I found these extra lines slowed up broad band, and people had moved to email anyway, so stopped using fax machine, and all the work fitting the phone sockets became redundant, specially as moved to cordless phones, and this is the problem, what is good today maybe redundant in 10 years time, and fitting cables ready is often pointless, tubes under drives etc allowing cables to be pulled in latter yes good idea, but guessing what will happen in 10 years time, simply does not work.
- but not so much because it "sees 258.7V" (since I suspect that it never would) but, rather, since it refuses to generate an output >253V, hence cannot send current down that cable if there is 253V (or more) at the other end.
