Paint repair

DiyNutJob said:
Better fill it before it rusts
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If you look at the 1st picture, there are signs of rust under the paint anyway.

This isn't a quick rub it down and paint it job, it's a lot more involved. Needs an experienced eye, physically looking at it to assess best way to proceed.
 
The rubberised finish can be achieved with stone chip. Prep the area, prime, fill, prime, stone chip, paint to finish. If you take your time and leave it to dry properly between coats you should achieve a reasonable finish.
 
Sorry to hijack this post but I've got a question about painting a repair I've just repaired

. I taped the area off and gave it 3 coats of primer , should I move the the masking tape back a few mm before spraying the gloss coat ?
 
Blending paint is really difficult especially if you have a metallic finish. For a small repair you could end up painting virtually the whole panel. I have had some success with this

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You really need to practice on an old panel from a scrap yard especially if the car is your pride and joy.

Take a look on youtube for how to do paint repairs. There is some really good advice. Google blending car paint and your hits will include how to undertake the repair.

Small body shops may well give you a good price, I recently paid £325 for a dink in a rear door, metallic finish and you cannot see the repair at all. Compare that to my bmw wheel arch scrape, also metallic and which I repaired myself, its not visible from 15 feet away but up close you can see a slightly different shade.
 
jameshampton said:
Sorry to hijack this post but I've got a question about painting a repair I've just repaired

. I taped the area off and gave it 3 coats of primer , should I move the the masking tape back a few mm before spraying the gloss coat ?
Click to expand...
Get rid of the masking tape it will leave a raised lip across the finished repair. Check out youtube as recommended in post #20 then using wet and dry rub the painted area to blend the new primer level with the surface. Leave it overnight to dry or use a hair dryer to speed up the process.

When I apply the top coat I have sprayed through a hole in a cardboard mask. Hold the cardboard about 6 inches away and spray through the hole in the card. The card restricts the amount of overspray whilst letting you cover the primer. Leave it to dry then rub down using fine wet and dry. Finish up by using polish on the new,y painted area. I use autoglym but others work just as well.

It really is worth practising on an old panel first, or even some hardboard if you can't get hold of an old panel.
 
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Old Salt said:
Blending paint is really difficult especially if you have a metallic finish. For a small repair you could end up painting virtually the whole panel. I have had some success with this
Click to expand...
I don't think the OP's paint is metallic. But it is still impossible to blend new paint to faded paint.
 
Hi again , I took my time and used filler primer and top coat over 3 days and did a reasonable job . You couldn't see the repair 5 meters away but you could if you where closer . I was really happy with it .

But yesterday it rained all day , I just looked at the repair to admire my handy work again and a noticed a blister in the paint . I popped it and water came out :( .
Any idea why this happened?
 
Was your car absolutely bone dry before doing the repair? What about between coats? Did you leave bare filler or primer overnight, outside.
 
The car was in the garage whilst I repaired it , it was definitely dry . I did leave a day between filler and primer but it was in the garage. Is it possible the water could be stuck in the sill and coming through the metal?
 
Water could be in the sill, but filler and primer could also absorb water overnight. Doesnt look as if there are any holes in your sill. Are there any blanking bungs underneath or at the ends that you could remove to see if any water comes out?
If the water came from the sill I would expect to see pin holes in the metal letting the water into contact with the paint.
What’s going on behind that missing paint towards the rear wheel, any bubbling of the paint or any rust there?
 
The big patch towards the rear wheel has stayed perfect, looks just like it was when I sprayed it . Just opened some blanking bungs underneath and completely dry .
Last time I put filler on the bare metal then primer then paint . Maybe this time I put primer first like you suggested, but that wouldn't explain the water bubbles
 
Maybe treat the metal first with a rust converter then prime /bodge/prime/gloss coat
Use a hair dryer first
 
Water could be from your original jet wash. There's a pool between the old filler and metal
 
Are the sills galvanized? I only ask as it may need a different primer.
 
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