Perfecting a floating floor

noseall said:
No idea about bounce. I’ve only used PIR boards and then it’s only been one layer. The chipboard at 22mm thick and glued, should be quite stiff. I’d just worry about any bow memory in the sheets
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Yeah, I'd much rather be doing a suspended floor but with a 220mm gap its not deep enough. Plus got no air bricks now its been constructed.

How would you sort the flooring if you were doing it yourself? I assume you'd screed it so that its only one layer of PIR?
 
noseall said:
Correct. Reliable and fuss free.
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I'm not too familiar with screeding. Would you just get it pumped in or use a mixer? Do you prefer screed above or below the insulation? Would it not be more expensive than using polystyrene and doesn't it take weeks to dry out fully?
 
Jamesn88 said:
I'm not too familiar with screeding. Would you just get it pumped in or use a mixer? Do you prefer screed above or below the insulation? Would it not be more expensive than using polystyrene and doesn't it take weeks to dry out fully?
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Above the inso. Yes there is a drying time. We have a contractor these days but I used to machine mix my own. Not easy.
 
noseall said:
Above the inso. Yes there is a drying time. We have a contractor these days but I used to machine mix my own. Not easy.
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Yeah thats my concern. Cost is a factor so would rather not have to get someone in. Relatively experienced with mortar but not really done any screeding.

Whats the reason you but the screed on top of the insulation? Does it not increase the risk of the insulation compressing with all that extra weight on it?
 
noseall said:
Standard building. So you have a floor finish ready to go lol. What do you think the purpose of a floor screed is?
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Guess it depends why its used. Could be to level the floor out, could just be to raise the height. I guess my thinking is that if there are issues in the future isn't it better than its on the bottom. I guess you don't need chipboard if you're doing screed but given the thickness i'd need. I think i'd be waiting about 6 months for it to dry which I Can't wait for, so will have to go the floating floor way.
 
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Any “bounce” should pretty much be eliminated by ensuring the slab is dead flat to start with. Address any issues with SLC or sand or mortar before the DPM goes down.

A screed is always a finishing layer and is a sharp sand cement mix or nowadays pumped liquid latex or whatever. Nowadays it’s pretty common to get the (concrete) slab very flat and do away with the screed. I’ve done this purely to avoid screeding as it’s a ball ache. Still likely to need a bit of SLC over it though.
 
23vc said:
Any “bounce” should pretty much be eliminated by ensuring the slab is dead flat to start with. Address any issues with SLC or sand or mortar before the DPM goes down.

A screed is always a finishing layer and is a sharp sand cement mix or nowadays pumped liquid latex or whatever. Nowadays it’s pretty common to get the (concrete) slab very flat and do away with the screed. I’ve done this purely to avoid screeding as it’s a ball ache. Still likely to need a bit of SLC over it though.
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Surprisingly, the level is pretty good. There are a few pour marks and slight ridges where they've joined two pours together. Is it probably worth chiselling these out so its that bit more flat? I've got some sharp sand I can chuck down where it may be needed.
 
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