Power Craft router table
- Thread starter seabreeze
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mattylad";p="1739066 said:I don't have a problem with mine Darma, mine fits perfikt! lol
Not that I have ever used it since I got it, maybe one day[/quot
used mine a few times Matty, although only decent on well machined timber.
Was looking for another article when I clicked on this. It'a a pretty old post but someone might find a possible solution handy. The problem from the photos is the springs would appear to be on the wrong side in your router. It will also be a pig when you want to adjust the cutter depth with them on that side. Your fighting against the the springs to raise it. to change the springs are on round bars which probably have a washer and securing screw on the end of them. Take out the screw both sides and slide off the base. Slide off the springs. Replace the base, then the springs on the new side, finally screwing back on the washer and screws. Fit the router to the table. You'll also find it much easier to adjust the height using the height adjusters on the router. Finally. Try replacing just one spring if they're strong. One was more than enough on my Bosch to do everything.
Of course if you still need the router as a plunging router, you'll need to change the springs back afterwards. Cheers.
Of course if you still need the router as a plunging router, you'll need to change the springs back afterwards. Cheers.
what bit of it is hard to figure out?
While it may take ages to put together, the basics of putting it together should be fairly simple.
Let us know what bit your stuck on & we can explain it for you.
I built mine, had a play then took it apart & put it back in the box, so you could say I'm experienced + OR MAYBE YA THINK YA JUST KNOW MORWE THAN ANYONE ELSE EH ?
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what bit of it is hard to figure out?
While it may take ages to put together, the basics of putting it together should be fairly simple.
Let us know what bit your stuck on & we can explain it for you.
I built mine, had a play then took it apart & put it back in the box, so you could say I'm experienced + OR MAYBE YA THINK YA JUST KNOW MORWE THAN ANYONE ELSE EH ?
You do not seem to know how to use the quote system?
NO I d not think I know more than anyone else, but I do know that these cheap router tables are fiddly but relatively easy to put together. Considering that someone is intelligent enough to know how to use a router & power tools I would expect a similar level of knowledge in assembly of something like this.
Why do you ask?I posted that comment a long time ago, what is the reason for commenting on it in such a way now?
Are you particularly thick so cannot assemble simple equipment?
Did you never have a meccano set?
Although this is a very old post these tables are still sold with the very same problem. I stumbled across this forum while battling with my Tork Craft table. I was surprised to see that it was the very same table and not any "Craft" at all but a Clarke CRT1. If you download the users manual for the Clarke CRT1 you will see that some egg head went and designed a cheaper fence for the craft and did it wrong. The clark fence is moulded and sports an adjustable jointing fence on the trailing end of the main fence. The dust collector duct does not have a floor, the table top is the floor of the dust duct. To stop the problem of the floor blocking the forward travel of the fence, I simply moved the fence all the way forward over the Router bit and marked the center of the tool on the floor. I used a hole saw, the same size as the hole in the table, to cut the offending floor. I hope this can save a cuss word for someone else.
Ps. I notice that another problem is mounting the router. My router is an old Makita that has a square base plate. I bought a 7" flange from an irrigation pipe dealer and machined it down to fit the recess in the table. I then machined two new posts from 3/4 inch galvanized water pipe to fit the router. I drilled two holes in the flange and machined spigots on the pillars to fit the holes in the flange tightly. I froze the pillars and heated the flange in an oven and press fitted the pillars to the flange. It did not require much expertise and the router still plunges on the new pillars.
Ps. I notice that another problem is mounting the router. My router is an old Makita that has a square base plate. I bought a 7" flange from an irrigation pipe dealer and machined it down to fit the recess in the table. I then machined two new posts from 3/4 inch galvanized water pipe to fit the router. I drilled two holes in the flange and machined spigots on the pillars to fit the holes in the flange tightly. I froze the pillars and heated the flange in an oven and press fitted the pillars to the flange. It did not require much expertise and the router still plunges on the new pillars.
I've had one of theses tables, and a cheap Aldi router, around unused for many years. I assembled the table when I first bought it, then just put it to one side for Ron (later (r)on). Ron arrived yesterday, so I had a go at attaching the router. The router baseplate is round, with two flats, the rounded sides around 12mm smaller than the recess, in the table - which made it difficult to centre, or keep centred. Another problem was that the router switch was a keep it pressed, to run - no ability to lock it on.
I solved the latter problem, by making an metal L bracket, fixed using two of the case screws, to hold the button in.
To keep the router centred, I cut a pair of flat sided, half moon shapes, which I glued into place, in the recess in the table. A couple of short bits of 6mm, wedge it the other way.
I was completely unable to make any sense of the dust extraction system. I have the manual, and the various bits, but other bits of machine tools mixed in with them. The fence has a too large hole at the back of it, for the usual vacuum cleaner hose. I found a clear plastic moulding which seems to be. fit the socket in the fence, redirects the suction 180 from the front. but it has a large, rectangular hole in the back of it, plus a couple of c/s screws, as if a cover were intended to go over it. Instead of using that, I packed some dense foam around the socket in the fence, to make a hose a tight fit.
I have yet worked out how to deal with the plunge springs, but I suspect it will be something along the lines of couple of length of 6mm rod, with the ends bent over, to form an L, to fit in the sockets for the guide, a metal plate over the bottom end of the motor, and a couple of 6mm nuts.
I solved the latter problem, by making an metal L bracket, fixed using two of the case screws, to hold the button in.
To keep the router centred, I cut a pair of flat sided, half moon shapes, which I glued into place, in the recess in the table. A couple of short bits of 6mm, wedge it the other way.
I was completely unable to make any sense of the dust extraction system. I have the manual, and the various bits, but other bits of machine tools mixed in with them. The fence has a too large hole at the back of it, for the usual vacuum cleaner hose. I found a clear plastic moulding which seems to be. fit the socket in the fence, redirects the suction 180 from the front. but it has a large, rectangular hole in the back of it, plus a couple of c/s screws, as if a cover were intended to go over it. Instead of using that, I packed some dense foam around the socket in the fence, to make a hose a tight fit.
I have yet worked out how to deal with the plunge springs, but I suspect it will be something along the lines of couple of length of 6mm rod, with the ends bent over, to form an L, to fit in the sockets for the guide, a metal plate over the bottom end of the motor, and a couple of 6mm nuts.
I got that sorted, and operational, today - it works rather well. I used a couple of galv tent pegs, 6mm OD, bending the end to a 90 degrees, and running a 6mm die down the straight end. The 90 degree end, fits in the sole plate, designed to accept the guide plate. I then made a collar, to fit over (what is now) the bottom end of the router. The collar, locates on the two shoulders of the router, leaving the speed control and the motor air vents. Compress the plunge, tighten the nuts, and it all very stable...
Better than the car scissor jack, that some suggest, which distort the table surface, as all the compression force, in limited to the router.