Power to drill but doesn't work

[Fredstudio]

To test isn't broken what should the readings be?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The blue and neutral pin on the one 10 plug?

Between the blue at the 110v yellow plug, and the blue inside the drill casing itself, at the drill trigger.

Then do the very same thing with the brown wire.

In both cases, there should be continuity/ near zero resistance/ if the meter has a continuity buzzer - it should buzz..

Before doing any of that - try shorting the tips of the meter out, to confirm that works, and what to expect.

 

[lostinthelight]

To test isn't broken what should the readings be?

Wasn't this given in post #8

 

[SUNRAY]

Yes you are testing end to end of the mains cable

 

[Fredstudio]

So put to ohms and I should get 0hms

 

[opps]

I'll repeat this:
I personally have found the biggest failure in my powertools is the cable breaks as it enters the tool,

and suggest the continuity tests on the mains lead are easier than motor diagnosis.

Years ago, one of my festool dust extractors stopped working. I stoopidly used an induction screwdriver to test it (rather than a multimeter). Turned out that it was a break in the neutral. When putting it back together, I enabled a cable to run too close to the armature. £100 for a new motor...

All I needed to do was cut the flex by about 20cm. No need for a new motor...

 

[Fredstudio]

So that was a broken cable?

 

[opps]

So that was a broken cable?

Yeah, that was a break in the neutral. I was simply pointing out the error of not having used a multimeter.

 

[Fredstudio]

Between the blue at the 110v yellow plug, and the blue inside the drill casing itself, at the drill trigger.

Then do the very same thing with the brown wire.

In both cases, there should be continuity/ near zero resistance/ if the meter has a continuity buzzer - it should buzz..

Before doing any of that - try shorting the tips of the meter out, to confirm that works, and what to expect.

Thanks it's getting on to the neutral and brown wire in the drill casing that is going to be awkward

 

[Fredstudio]

So I managed to get the pins of the multi meter on to the live and neutral on the drill and on to the live and neutral pins of the plug. Neutral connector to neutral pin gave 0.00ohms. Live connection on drill to live pin on the plug gave OL.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So I managed to get the pins of the multi meter on to the live and neutral on the drill and on to the live and neutral pins of the plug. Neutral connector to neutral pin gave 0.00ohms. Live connection on drill to live pin on the plug gave OL.

Which means the live wire has a break somewhere, most likely within just a few inches of where it enters the drill itself. Try tugging on the copper core end of the live wire, close to the drill - you may find it comes out of the insulation.

 

[Fredstudio]

Thank you it looks pretty good?

 

[Fredstudio]

Does anyone know how to wire back in to those connectors how to get the wires out?

 

[Tricky-Dicky]

Hi, have you tried pushing a dress-makers pin alongside the wire as it enters the switch, then pull/wiggle the wire out of the switch. It might release the springy steel strip holding the wire. Then repeat on the other wire
To insert a new wire just push it into the now vacant hole.

 

[Mike13]

Thank you it looks pretty good?

the break usually happens just below the bottom of that picture. You do not see it, as the copper has fractured where it is flexed too much and work hardens, so just where the flex leaves the drill.