problem with pc coming on
- Thread starter marty
- Start date
I
Igorian
Hi, it's still possibly the PSU. One of the requirements for the POST to complete successfully is that a 'power good' signal is received within a specified time. If it is late, the boot sequence will not complete. If the PSU is getting old, it may have a leaky cap or two.
Another possibility. Have a look at the electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, especially if there is a large group of them surrounding the processor. They should be cylindrical with flat tops. If they show signs of bulging (we call them fatcaps) or leaking (like a brown coffee stain on the top or bottom) , then the motherboard is u/s. Not sure of the make of your board, but we see it a lot on Jetway and MSI boards.
Does this problem only occur if you perform a cold start rather than a restart?
Another possibility. Have a look at the electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, especially if there is a large group of them surrounding the processor. They should be cylindrical with flat tops. If they show signs of bulging (we call them fatcaps) or leaking (like a brown coffee stain on the top or bottom) , then the motherboard is u/s. Not sure of the make of your board, but we see it a lot on Jetway and MSI boards.
Does this problem only occur if you perform a cold start rather than a restart?
Again, I am replying to an old post, but with reason.
I had this exact same problem occur 4 or 5 years ago, and traced it to the PSU. I had added a "Zip" drive a few months earlier, but somehow the PSU had degraded enough over those few months to make it so the Zip drive pushed it past the threshold.
I replaced the 250W PSU with a friends' spare 300W PSU (which was a big'un for the period) and never had the problem again. See if you have any friends who will let you borrow a higher-rated PSU to try, alternatively try unplugging drives and see if it gets any further.
If it turns out to be the PSU, I seriously recommend that when you buy a new PSU, get a good-quality one. My recent experiences with a cheap PSU blowing up have cost me nearly £200 in hardware that the PSU killed when it surged power through everything. And other hardware may have a shorter life because of it. I was nowhere near it's 350W rating either!
I had this exact same problem occur 4 or 5 years ago, and traced it to the PSU. I had added a "Zip" drive a few months earlier, but somehow the PSU had degraded enough over those few months to make it so the Zip drive pushed it past the threshold.
I replaced the 250W PSU with a friends' spare 300W PSU (which was a big'un for the period) and never had the problem again. See if you have any friends who will let you borrow a higher-rated PSU to try, alternatively try unplugging drives and see if it gets any further.
If it turns out to be the PSU, I seriously recommend that when you buy a new PSU, get a good-quality one. My recent experiences with a cheap PSU blowing up have cost me nearly £200 in hardware that the PSU killed when it surged power through everything. And other hardware may have a shorter life because of it. I was nowhere near it's 350W rating either!
heeelllooo marty
now adams found the post for me
my computer has only played up once since my last posting and the cd drawers and floppy drawer work so thank you very very much marty you have obviously fixed my computer
i hope your problem has been sorted or will be sorted soon
good luck
now adams found the post for me
my computer has only played up once since my last posting and the cd drawers and floppy drawer work so thank you very very much marty you have obviously fixed my computer i hope your problem has been sorted or will be sorted soon
good luck