Rate this Job! - Cooker Hood / Extractor Install

[JohnD]

Is this protective covering supposed to stay on the unit after install - or was it supposed to be removed?

it looks like you have a stainless hood. The grey film is attached in the steel mill, after polishing or brushing, to protect stainless from bring scratched or marked with greasy or acid fingerprints, or during fabrication.

It should not be taken off until fitting is completed, and the kitchen fitters have no more opportunity to mark the surface with their dirty hands or scratch it with their hammers, or to drop plaster or paint on it.

Therefore, it is correct to leave it on until you have finished work.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Andy - you on Meth? Or something else?

After the unwelcome approach of a select few fellow members on the forum - I got up on a step ladder - and took a look today. The plastic can be seen in the original pics - poking out the top - of the unit.

I'm asking - should this be there?

Your nuts mate! Your units are 20 years old, your sparky has done more than required and you are looking for faults!

Go to the park and shout at the ducks, get it out of your system. (try and not to scare any kids)

Have a good afternoon!

Andy

 

[SirLancelot]

So in summary - the only real areas of discussion I should have with the fitter is:

1. Please remove the film. The manual warns users - that with all gas burners being used - the extractor could experience a significant amount of heat - and get extremely hot. It was supposed to be removed before final fitting. If there is warranty issue in the future - and Neff are called out - they may choose to invalidate the warranty (at their discretion) - if it looks like basic attention to detail was not payed. At minimum - it will be hard to explain that an appliance used above gas burners - and made of metal - should be partially covered in thin combustible plastic film anywhere.

2. Once the wooden panel covers the top - the plug (therefore isolation point) will no longer be directly accessible. As there are no RCD's on the main CU, an isolation strategy is necessary. Having to unscrew the panel - to access the isolation point - might not be enough.

3. A number of fellow community memebers have suggested that the power cord be hung on the cabinet on the side - just to protect it from heat.

So other than these points the job is mostly complete (inside the house).

These final improvements - will ensure that there are no issues from this install - that could cause a problem with my home insurance & the manufacturer's warranty.

My sincere gratitude to those that chose to constructively contribute to this thread.

I learned alot through the discussion - and I hope it will help others in the future.



Some notes for future readers:

The Alu-flex exhaust pipe - was sourced from IKEA. It is extremely high quality and good value for the price: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/search/?k=NYTTIG+TUB

Don't listen to anyone that tells you duct tape is appropriate or acceptable for a cooker hood / extractor seals. Use Aluminium/foil tape that is specifically rated for heating ventilation systems. It must be heat resistant.

Competent install - will allow for relatively easy access to the isolation point.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Im surprised the sparkie wanted to do any more than just do the electrical part.

Bet he's wishing he hadn't.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As there are no RCD's on the main CU, an isolation strategy is necessary.

I don't see the connection.

The Alu-flex exhaust pipe - was sourced from IKEA. It is extremely high quality and good value for the price: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/search/?k=NYTTIG+TUB

OK - so it was an extremely high quality good value inferior alternative to a rigid smooth bore duct.

Don't listen to anyone that tells you duct tape is appropriate or acceptable for a cooker hood / extractor seals. Use Aluminium/foil tape that is specifically rated for heating ventilation systems. It must be heat resistant.

Like this stuff, you mean?

 

[HERTS P&D]

I bet the sparky has now blocked his number.



Andy

 

[EFLImpudence]

1. Please remove the film.

Do it yourself.

The manual warns users - that with all gas burners being used - the extractor could experience a significant amount of heat - and get extremely hot. It was supposed to be removed before final fitting. If there is warranty issue in the future - and Neff are called out - they may choose to invalidate the warranty (at their discretion)

I'm sure you will complain.

- if it looks like basic attention to detail was not payed. At minimum - it will be hard to explain that an appliance used above gas burners - and made of metal - should be partially covered in thin combustible plastic film anywhere.

It will not combust jammed between the hood and the wall.

2. Once the wooden panel covers the top

Wood is combustible. Is that a good idea?

- the plug (therefore isolation point) will no longer be directly accessible. As there are no RCD's on the main CU, an isolation strategy is necessary. Having to unscrew the panel - to access the isolation point - might not be enough.

Switch off the MCB (the part you call a fuse).

3. A number of fellow community memebers have suggested that the power cord be hung on the cabinet on the side - just to protect it from heat.

Unnecessary. How hot do you think it is going to get.

Don't listen to anyone that tells you duct tape is appropriate or acceptable for a cooker hood / extractor seals. Use Aluminium/foil tape that is specifically rated for heating ventilation systems. It must be heat resistant.

What do you think duct tape is for? Clue in name.
There are several types, some is used behind gas fires, your aluminium tape is duct tape - for sealing ducting.

 

[JohnW2]

2. Once the wooden panel covers the top - the plug (therefore isolation point) will no longer be directly accessible. As there are no RCD's on the main CU, an isolation strategy is necessary. Having to unscrew the panel - to access the isolation point - might not be enough.

If you're concerned about regulations, there is another issue ...

... as far as the Wiring Regs are concerned, 'screwed connections' in an electrical installation (like those connecting cables to a socket) are not permitted in 'non-accessible' locations. There could undoubtedly be discussion/debate as to whether being behind a 'screwed on' access panel counts as 'accessible' or not - but I would personally not be convinced that it really does count as 'accessible'. Whether that would worry me or not is another matter, but it might be of concern to you.

Kind Regards, John

 

[SirLancelot]

Tbf he got defencive when he was called deluded and that someone felt sorry for workmen in his house.

Also when he was accused of bad maintenance (quite possibly true).

But he didn't ask if he caused to original problem.

He appears to be happy with the work done and just wanted clarification.

People questioned what the spark had done, as I said before I think he did more than spark would be expected to do.

That saying are electricians only able to do electrical works or can they diversify a bit? (Seems his spark gave him a complete package).

At no point unless I'm mistaken has he said he's unhappy with the work just that he wanted other people's ratings on the work so he doesn't get screwed over again.

The op is making sure all is good protecting his family and home.

Nail on the head.

 

[Lectrician]

I wouldn’t be going back, and would happily forfeit the lost hour or so.

The flex resting on top of the extractor. We’re do you think it ends up? INSIDE the thing! What precaution do you want to take there? It is fine. It is heat resistive.

The film being left on the back is little lazy, but not worth the hassle removing. It is not going to combust. Your wooden cupboards would combust first.

There’s over thinking, then there’s this.

This electrician has done a reasonable job, especially with you stood behind him taking photos.

 

[EFLImpudence]

... as far as the Wiring Regs are concerned, 'screwed connections' in an electrical installation (like those connecting cables to a socket) are not permitted in 'non-accessible' locations. There could undoubtedly be discussion/debate as to whether being behind a 'screwed on' access panel counts as 'accessible' or not - but I would personally not be convinced that it really does count as 'accessible'. Whether that would worry me or not is another matter, but it might be of concern to you.

Of course it's accessible.

How do you get inside the socket?

 

[Lectrician]

It’s only a front fascia. There is no top cover. It’s hardly inaccessible. From an isolation point of view, IMO, the socket is perfectly fine. It’s not “emergency switching”.

 

[JohnW2]

Of course it's accessible.

As I implied, it's certainly accessible enough for me - but I've seen plenty of discussions/arguments about what counts as an 'accessible joint' as far as the regs are concerned.

Where do you personally draw the line? I have (or, at least, had - most have been changed) non-MF JB's behind screwed on 'access panels' (in walls and 'boxing'), and also non-MF JBs, below screwed-on access panels under floors (with the panel under carpet).

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

It’s only a front fascia. There is no top cover.

Do we know that? The OP implied that unscrewing would be necessary to access the socket.

From an isolation point of view, IMO, the socket is perfectly fine. It’s not “emergency switching”.

Since neither a means of isolation nor an 'emergency switch' are required, that is rather moot. However, do you not count the connection between cable and a socket as being a "joint"? What if it were an FCU rather than a socket?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Lectrician]

Do we know that? The OP implied that unscrewing would be necessary to access the socket.
Since neither a means of isolation nor an 'emergency switch' are required, that is rather moot. However, do you not count the connection between cable and a socket as being a "joint"? What if it were an FCU rather than a socket?

Kind Regards, John

FCU or socket makes little odds.

Looking at the pics, I fail to see how that socket could become boxed in.