Reduce joist height

[burts]

Normally when boarding ceilings you screw to the joist lines, not the solid strutting. When you have a board balanced on your head with maybe the other end supported on a tee it's kind of difficult (often impossible) to hit a piece of solid strutting which runs at right angles to the joists - it's far, far easier to aim for the joists, because you can see where they are located down one edge of the board, and on the other edge you'll either have pencil marks on the wall (first row) or a nice row of visible screw heads and you can assess where the joist line us quite easily. It would waste a lot of time messing about measuring where strutting was so you could screw into it.

If you'd ever seen a pro installing a ceiling, or even installed one yourself, this would be obvious to you. You might conceivably get a few screws where a piece of solid strutting is visible on a board edge and could be screwed into, but I can't see a pro doing that very often, either

I agree with you ….. but it’s 3 years ago now so I wouldn’t be risking knocking them out incase the odd few screws went in to them. I don’t want to be repairing downstairs

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yea cause you wouldn't fix the ceiling to a bit of strutting because you're not a professional or on the bonkers off chance you might need to remove them later. Classic J&K.

No you muppet, it's just unlikely that it will happen. When was the last time you boarded out a ceiling?

I agree with you ….. but it’s 3 years ago now so I wouldn’t be risking knocking them out incase the odd few screws went in to them. I don’t want to be repairing downstairs

In that case just hope thats there are no nails or screws near to the tops of the strutting... Unfortunately with any work there is always the chance that some remedials may be necessary. Still better than ripping the entire ceiling out

 

[Notch7]

it's just unlikely that it will happen

it is very unlikely because whoever tacked the ceiling wouldn’t know where the struts are once the board was in place.

but you would know the joists ctrs.

great fun in old houses when the joists are all over the place

 

[Deleted member 174758]

great fun in old houses when the joists are all over the place

Fortunately this is a relatively new house...

A thought occurred about using a biscuit jointer - ever seen the old Elu DS140 (aka deWalt DW687 I think)? They were designed to cut biscuits and do rip cuts for forming shadow gap ceilings, and you can still get saw blades for them for ripping. Bosch used to make a similar swing body jointer called a GUF4-22

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

No you muppet, it's just unlikely that it will happen. When was the last time you boarded out a ceiling?


In that case just hope thats there are no nails or screws near to the tops of the strutting... Unfortunately with any work there is always the chance that some remedials may be necessary. Still better than ripping the entire ceiling out

He said himself he may have done so.

 

[johnny2007]

Thinking of a less messy solution, what finishing do you have on your floor?
Do you need the same finish in the extension?
Or could you live with 2 different materials (carpet to wood floor or laminate to wood?)
How big is first floor?
Could it be boarded with 18/20mm?
Bear in mind that would include removing skirting and cut bottom of doors.

 

[blup]

Morning, I have just built a second storey extension on top of a ground floor extension (which was done 3 years ago).
I’ve knocked through in to the existing bedroom and the new floor is 20mm higher than the existing. I don’t want it ramped, feathered or existing raised creating a step at the door bar.
So my question is, what is the best way to take 20mm of the joists and noggins on the new extension floor?

At the risk of missing the bleeding obvious use an electric planer to a pencilled line, they good ones takeoff 4mm in one pass so thats about five passes. A lot of work and even more dust. Use a belt sander for the ends.

Or replace and raise the floor next door, a lot less to go wrong.

 

[bernardgreen]

Or maybe leave the joists as they are and have short lengths of floor board fitted on bearers to be at the same level as the tops of the joists

( gaps between floor boards shown exaggerated )

 

[Why Not Indeed]

Probably would take longer than shaving the joists.

 

[burts]

Thinking of a less messy solution, what finishing do you have on your floor?
Do you need the same finish in the extension?
Or could you live with 2 different materials (carpet to wood floor or laminate to wood?)
How big is first floor?
Could it be boarded with 18/20mm?
Bear in mind that would include removing skirting and cut bottom of doors

Can

At the risk of missing the bleeding obvious use an electric planer to a pencilled line, they good ones takeoff 4mm in one pass so thats about five passes. A lot of work and even more dust. Use a belt sander for the ends.

Or replace and raise the floor next door, a lot less to go wrong.

Can’t raise the floor as it will be too high where it meets the hallway.
And I don’t think I’d be that accurate with a plane

 

[blup]

Can’t raise the floor as it will be too high where it meets the hallway.

10mm off the new floor (via materials used in the finished floor level) and 10mm on the existing floor, sloped down to zero using underlay. 10mm over several metres won't be noticeable.

 

[burts]

10mm off the new floor (via materials used in the finished floor level) and 10mm on the existing floor, sloped down to zero using underlay. 10mm over several metres won't be noticeable.

It’s 2m to the door and floor already runs out
will def notice

 

[blup]

It’s 2m to the door and floor already runs out
will def notice

That is perfectionism surely.

 

[blup]

Unless you are doing it up for selling, put a threshold in, you will (seriously) get used to it very quickly after a few trios.