Repair or NOT rotten garage door panels

[yartin]

Hi
I started a simple garage door decoration but have issues.
The door frame is sound, match boards are rotting, pls see photos
I am considering the following options:
1. Replace 4 match boards T&Gs on each door, ones which are used to fix hinges on, decorate the rest and fix weather bar.
2. Remove all match boards and replace with one wood sheet timber, most economically plywood, prime and paint. This should last 5-10 years, I hope.
3. Abandon project, buy new garage door.
4. What do you suggest?

Thanks

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Why don't you continue your original thread on this?

 

[opps]

Path of least resistance?

Move the hinges up and runa horizontal bit of timber along the bottom, cut the ends at 45 degrees, but the doors won't fold flat when you open them.

 

[yartin]

Path of least resistance?

Move the hinges up and runa horizontal bit of timber along the bottom, cut the ends at 45 degrees, but the doors won't fold flat when you open them.

Moving hinges up may not be a good option. The bottom hinge is fixed by 4 screws to door frames, moving up will only have one screw to the fame and rest will be onto panel.

I can add timber to frame but it's too much patching....

 

[opps]

Moving hinges up may not be a good option. The bottom hinge is fixed by 4 screws to door frames, moving up will only have one screw to the fame and rest will be onto panel.

I don't understand your reply.

Why can't you simply drill four new holes for the fame side of the hinge? And then drill new holes for for the door side of the hinge?

At the moment it looks like the screws in to the door side are close(ish) to failing as the rot works its way up.

 

[yartin]

I don't understand your reply.

Why can't you simply drill four new holes for the fame side of the hinge? And then drill new holes for for the door side of the hinge?

At the moment it looks like the screws in to the door side are close(ish) to failing as the rot works its way up.

Door side of the hinge atm is fixed to door frame. There will be no door frame to fix the hinge to, hinge will be fixed to panels only. Photo below will make sense I hope ?

 

[yartin]

The plot is getting thicker, the rot is running higher than expected on most panels, bigger gaps appearing which will prevent a weather bar to hide. Pls see pics.

Is it a good plan to cut all door panels from bottom by about 25cm and replace with one piece of timber? I will also need to strengthen frame to fix this new timer to.

 

[opps]

Door side of the hinge atm is fixed to door frame. There will be no door frame to fix the hinge to, hinge will be fixed to panels only. Photo below will make sense I hope ?

View attachment 307469

I think I now understand, sorry.

I hadn't taken in to account the fact that the hinge screws run into the bottom rail.

 

[yartin]

How easy / difficult is to change all panels to new t&g of same thickness? Is it the case of carefully remove old which are nailed to frame and assemble new screwed to frame?

 

[opps]

How easy / difficult is to change all panels to new t&g of same thickness? Is it the case of carefully remove old which are nailed to frame and assemble new screwed to frame?

I have never made one of those barn type doors, but I suspect that what you plan to do may be akin to building the door from scratch.

My perhaps, incorrect, understanding is that the styles, rails and diagonals are held in place by the exterior timber, rather than the interior frame being a structurally sound frame that has the exterior wood added to the external face.

I will defer to @JobAndKnock

 

[yartin]

I am now tempted to remove all match boards and replace with marine plywood sheet (or any other suitable) and bob is your uncle, any thoughts?

 

[opps]

I am now tempted to remove all match boards and replace with marine plywood sheet and bob is your uncle, any thoughts?

About 20 year ago, I built my garage. I had no gate at side at the time. Then certain people decided to move their caravans in to the park at the back of my property.

In a rush, I used a sheet of WBP ply as a gate. 20 years later (there was nothing to protect the upper edge). I still have the same gate.

To be fair, it has warped by a couple of mm but it hasn't delaminated.

I do however get the impression that the quality of WBP has dropped.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I do however get the impression that the quality of WBP has dropped.

You are not wrong there

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I am now tempted to remove all match boards and replace with marine plywood sheet (or any other suitable) and bob is your uncle, any thoughts?

Providing the framework is sound then great. If it is rotten, theow it away and stRt again with a completely new frame and cladding. I have done a couple where I took the door off, set it up on trestles, then peeled off a couple or three of the T&G boards, then gone through a cycle of fix one - remove the next, fix another, etc, etc, finishing off with the last few new boards. You really need to be sure that your frame has no rot and hasn't dropped to do that successfully

As to part cladding - don't go there! If nothing else the resulting door will be less strong and easier to break into, as well as generally not being as strong or water tight

Proper marine ply costs a bomb. WBP is probably what you'd end up with, and it isn't as good, but it would certainly be heavier than the T&G, not to mention potentially thicker. That could cause problems

 

[yartin]

About 20 year ago, I built my garage. I had no gate at side at the time. Then certain people decided to move their caravans in to the park at the back of my property.

In a rush, I used a sheet of WBP ply as a gate. 20 years later (there was nothing to protect the upper edge). I still have the same gate.

To be fair, it has warped by a couple of mm but it hasn't delaminated.

I do however get the impression that the quality of WBP has dropped.

Did you just prime and paint the wbp ply?