Repair or NOT rotten garage door panels

The frames are good for both doors.

Any other timber sheet to consider apart from wbp ply?

Is priming and painting the wbp enough? I will prepare before fixing to frame.

Should the new timber be snug fit or few mm spacing to frame?
 
JobAndKnock said:
As to part cladding - don't go there!

Proper marine ply costs a bomb. WBP is probably what you'd end up with, and it isn't as good, but it would certainly be heavier than the T&G, not to mention potentially thicker. That could cause problems
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No won't do part cladding.

Either full cladding or ply. Is full cladding straight forward? I won't be taking the door off.
 
For God's sake man, buy some new bl00dy doors!

Is this for one of your rental properties??

Andy
 
yartin said:
The frames are good for both doors.

Any other timber sheet to consider apart from wbp ply?

Is priming and painting the wbp enough? I will prepare before fixing to frame.

Should the new timber be snug fit or few mm spacing to frame?
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You can get an exterior MDF, but it is about £140 per sheet. I have never used it


yartin said:
Did you just prime and paint the wbp ply?
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The interior face of the WBP was sprayed with a couple of coats of waterbased fence paint. The end grain and exterior face were left untouched.

I would however strongly recommend that you paint all sides and edges.
 
HERTS P&D said:
That's not very nice.

Typical landlord doesn't want to spend money but is happy taking the rent!

I won't be helping you again!...............Knob!!

Andy
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You're the first one on my ignore list....knob
 
yartin said:
Any other timber sheet to consider apart from wbp ply?
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Not if you want a neat appearance. MDF (even MR-MDF) and chipboard will turn to mush in the weather, OSB3 looks gawdawful and won't paint out and cement board is very heavy (probably too heavy). One thing you may need to watch is thickness - I'd say you need to have material of a similar thickness to what's currently on there

yartin said:
Is priming and painting the wbp enough? I will prepare before fixing to frame.
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I'd be belt and braces - edge lip using hardwood lippings with a waterproof glue, then 3 to 4 coats of a good, oil-based lacquer

yartin said:
Should the new timber be snug fit or few mm spacing to frame?
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I'd have thought there would be a gap of 3 to 5mm between the door and the frame originally. You'll need to allow the same sort of gap if only because all wood moves even plywood on exterior conditions.

TBH it is a lot easier to fix a sheet of plywood onto a door framework which has been removed from the opening and placed onto 3 or 4 trestles (or 3 or 4 stacks of blockwork if that is what you have)
 
yartin said:
Either full cladding or ply. Is full cladding straight forward? I won't be taking the door off.
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You really need to get them off and supported on trestles to do the job properly
 
JobAndKnock said:
You really need to get them off and supported on trestles to do the job properly
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I ordered T&G redwood cladding, should arrive in few days, will be primed painted before assembling, Do I need to leave gaps between the T&Gs (around 2mm) to allow for shrink and expansion?
 
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Update:

2 frames replaced. All T&G boards replaced, 1mm spacing, painted before fitting, very pleased with result.
Matchboards were screwed, holes painted for now will wait till next summer to fill and decorate in case.
Photos below:

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IMG_6057 (1).jpg


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