Ring main or Radial for sockets in extension?

JohnD said:
Winston's opinions can be ignored.
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DON’T EVER TELL MEMBERS TO IGNORE ME OR ANYONE ELSE. It is up to people to make their own decisions, right or wrong. I would never tell others to ignore you or anyone else.

FCUs were never designed to be isolation switches. They are designed to protect the cable on hard wired appliances.

Some don’t even have switches.
 
Winston! you can have all the opinions you like, but do NOT post these opinions as if they were factually correct statements.

To all, when you read Winston1's postings treat the content as an expression of his opinion.
 
winston1 said:
DON’T EVER TELL MEMBERS TO IGNORE ME OR ANYONE ELSE. It is up to people to make their own decisions, right or wrong. I would never tell others to ignore you or anyone else.

FCUs were never designed to be isolation switches. They are designed to protect the cable on hard wired appliances.

Some don’t even have switches.
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Surely a switched fused connection unit is exactly that - an isolation switch.

It has a fuse, but it also cuts off the live and neutral supply - so that is most definitely an isolation switch.

Isn't it?
 
sparkwright said:
Surely a switched fused connection unit is exactly that - an isolation switch.

It has a fuse, but it also cuts off the live and neutral supply - so that is most definitely an isolation switch.

Isn't it?
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But that is not its primary purpose. It’s purpose is to protect the cable of hard wired appliances. As I said not all FCUs have switches.
 
A big thank you to everyone for firing in your opinions and giving me the benefit of your experience.

I'm going to go with FCUs in-line with both the washing machine and dryer sockets for both "belts and braces" electrical safety and (primarily) as a quick and easy means of isolation if the situation arises.

However, I recognise that this is just a personal decision and not through any necessity in order to comply with any regulations etc.

Thanks again everyone for steering me right as always :-)
 
scousespark said:
Before you install a new circuit, the building regs require you to notify your LABC.
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Yep, it's for an extension so we've already got a Building Warrant (I'm based in Scotland) and I've got a registered spark set up to check all my work and sign it off for me when complete.

Cheers :-)
 
In the eighties, to avoid the double fusing problem with an FCU feeding an appliance, some sparks used to fit 15A sockets on the end of the FCUs and 15A plugs on the appliances.

Others used to fit a flex outlet below with a length of 1.5 attached, The appliance flex would then be jointed to this with a two-part 13A connector.

Having tried all sorts of methods over the decades, I settled on putting an FCU above a worktop, then running the load side to a 13A socket surface-mounted in a concealed (but accessible) location.

This way, there is no fumbling around to disconnect and although there are two fuses, both are easy enough to access.

The main advantage is there is no need to chop off the appliance plugs.

I had such a job inspected by an ECA inspector who passed it as compliant with no qualms.

Edited for clarity.
 
Are you also going to replace all your light switches with FCUs for “belt and braces” as well? Because that is no more silly than putting them in line with 13 amp sockets.
 
Winston1's appliances are all easy to move to get access to the socket or his has untidy leads coming up from each appliance to a socket above the work surface,

Or maybe he has no appliances and uses a launderette
 
bernardgreen said:
Winston1's appliances are all easy to move to get access to the socket or his has untidy leads coming up from each appliance to a socket above the work surface,

Or maybe he has no appliances and uses a launderette
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You have no idea what I have. I don't have an ugly line of unnecessary FCUs above the worktop. I can isolate at my CU if required.
 
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