Shower issues

I find domestic switches are reliable devices and by far the most frequent failure is shower pull switches overheating. My theory on this [and again I stress it is only my theory without any great deal if investigative proof] is the thick wires are forced into a very limited space after tightening and the good termination becomes disturbed/damaged at the time of installation after that it's only a question of time. Most other switches don't suffer with the same cramped conditions.

That seems about right, which is a good reason to have a wall mounted one which is much more robust and more space for the cable.

My bathroom light and shower isolator switches are just outside the bathroom door.
 
That seems about right, which is a good reason to have a wall mounted one which is much more robust and more space for the cable.
If it results, at least theoretically, in an 'unnecessary' fire risk, some might say that it is a 'good reason' for not having one at all, mightn't they?

Kind Regards, John
 
And how do you expect the average combi boiler to work in frost protection mode with the water turned off?????
A combi boiler does not require the water to be turned on to work in frost protection mode. It just circulates the water in the central heating pipes.
 
A combi boiler does not require the water to be turned on to work in frost protection mode. It just circulates the water in the central heating pipes.
Try turning the mains water off, open a cold tap to relieve the pressure, turn up the frost stat or raise the set point to above the ambient temp and see what happens. I can only say what happen with Remeha and Chaffs.
 
Neither the water regs nor the wiring regs apply to a combi in frost protection mode.
 
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