Stairs skirting board gap

[Deleted member 174758]

Back strength isn't the issue. You can screw it any way you like and it won't make a blind bit of difference, other than potentially introducing creaks and squeaks at a later date and destroying ab=ny ability to ever repair those stairs in the future (replacement will be the only option). I'll reiterate what two of us have now said to you, and bear in mind we are both pretty experienced in the building trade - cutting into a stringer will weaken it and it is a very bad idea, so don't do it.

The jury appears to be divided on this one. I'll try and track down the manufacturer and see what they say.

No, the jury isn't out. One DIY opinion doesn't outweigh what the City and Guilds teaches, or what the BCO or insurers find acceptable, nor does it outweigh 200+ years of proven joinery practice.

 

[Koolpc]

I wouldnt cut into the stringer. Its designed that way for a reason. Try and find another work around.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I wouldnt cut into the stringer. Its designed that way for a reason. Try and find another work around.

Precisely. A stair can be built with two cut stringers (not too common in the UK) or one cut stringer and one housed stringer (more common), but that has to be specified when the stairs are built. Part of the reason for this is that the cut stringer (the outside one in the illustration below) needs to be a lot deeper below the housed wall stringer in order to have sufficient strength:

The above illustrates the point. Note how deep the cut stringer is beneath the treads - the design of this type of stair has to be decided at the time of manufacture, partly because of setting out issues, but also because the method of connecting the treads to the risers is completely different

 

[Magicalwonders]

Many thanks for the feedback and advice guys. I've taken it on board and I won't be removing the stringer above the tread.

How about if I just reduce the thickness a bit as in the diagram below?

The stringer would be full thickness for 9mm above the tread, then rebated 9mm. The stringer would remain mostly intact.
I've had a look at building regs to see if there is a minimum thickness of stringer specified, but haven't found any references to it.

 

[Magicalwonders]

I've come up with an alternative solution which shouldn't affect the stringer at all.

The wall isn't quite straight. If I clad the door frame with 5mm timber, I can apply plasterboard (straight) and it will protrude just 2 or 3mm past the frame. I can then put a small rebate in the architrave before fixing it around the door frame.

At floor level, the stringer protrudes across the door frame, so the architrave would look a bit weird. I'm guessing there is no harm in taking it back a bit in order to accommodate the architrave?