Timber Cladding

Not the battens, the cladding was overlapped, similar to the op‘s image.
 
Oh ok I get you, I guess it wouldn’t be 44mm though as that would assume no overlap with feather edge boards. Probably more like 30-35mm depending on size of overlap but still heafty battens.
 
FWIW mine was just planks, not feather edged. The planks are fairly heavy and with a fair few on the wall 15/16 tall, and they are wide 250mm.
 
Cedral...

[GALLERY=media, 104982]15959275423501088099939 by noseall posted 28 Jul 2020 at 10:12 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 103456]Porcha by noseall posted 26 Oct 2019 at 4:12 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 103437]Cedral2 by noseall posted 24 Oct 2019 at 9:50 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 103436]Cedral by noseall posted 24 Oct 2019 at 9:50 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 100797]Windows In by noseall posted 8 Dec 2017 at 5:19 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 100786]Cedral Four by noseall posted 5 Dec 2017 at 4:40 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 100782]Cedral Three by noseall posted 5 Dec 2017 at 4:40 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 100742]Cderal1 by noseall posted 4 Dec 2017 at 5:55 PM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 100733]Cedral10 by noseall posted 3 Dec 2017 at 7:10 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 100727]Cedral2 by noseall posted 3 Dec 2017 at 7:10 AM[/GALLERY]
 
Haven't used Cedral, but have used cembrit weatherboard plank https://www.cembrit.co.uk/cladding-panels/wood-look/plank which is available in a range of colours. My local merchant (cwberry leyland) stocks a good few colours and has trims to match. It's easy to put up and very DIYable provided you buy or hire a guillotine and gecko gauges. The manufacturers provide very detailed installation guides. For cutting odd angles etc, I find a wet tile cutter works quite well. It has a tendency to very quickly blunt saw blades.

You can nail it, but cembrit supply special screws which are recommended. Merchant told me their cembrit rep said there had been a big problem on a local estate where nails had worked out over time through thermal movement. The screws are self-drilling but I find it is quicker and easier to push a 3mm pilot in first rather than spinning the screw until it bites. https://www.cwberry.com/Building-Ma.../Cembrit-Zytex-Screws-for-Timber_02252811.htm
 
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I'd recommend a few spots of mastic on the overlaps to stop it rattling in the wind when installing it.
 
Agree, good brushing down with a stiff bristled brush (e.g. https://www.toolstation.com/stiff-general-purpose-brush/p97606 and/or https://www.toolstation.com/industrial-stiff-yard-broom-with-handle/p29500). Make sure any bare timber is back to solid wood.

The treatment - ideally ought to be proper 'Creosote', very difficult to find nowadays or a mix of creosote and Bitchumastic. You need a liquid to soak into the timber. Modern wood preservatives just don't last as long.
Good Morning,
After 2 years, I finally have decided to repairing it and have been painting the wood with Creocote (It is not as good as creosote, but hopefully it can still do some prevention). I now struggle with top paint, and was hoping if I could get some advise.

I asked around my neighbours, some people said use ducksback fence paint, some said use bitumen paint, but the timber store staff said use bedec barn paint, then the farmer suggest I should use oil based paint. I am now very confused and don't know which to go for. I just want it durable, able to withstand sunlight well and black colour. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated ‍
 
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