Trend router table. Now with pics of router

IMHO you have a good table (I've done loads on mine) but not a great router. I've had budget routers before. The last a ryobi which I retired when the top bearing became wobbly in the plastic moulding. In a table you can use bigger cutters and they'll be further out because of the need to project through the table. You need something powerful and robust, so although what you have might be good for now, I would plan to get a new machine to mount in the table.

With regard to inserting router bits, in a table I often find 1/4" cutters a bit on the short side because they need to project that bit further. I tend to use mine in a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer which allows me to gain a few mm of height and still keep the cutter deep enough on its shaft.
 
I really need to consider buying a router table. What are the pros and cons though when looking at the ones that have a router built in?

Price wise- some reasonable quality ones seem to be cheaper than a decent table plus decent freestanding router.

www.kendaltools.co.uk

Holzstar TF50E Router/Shaper Table complete with table extensions 230volt - Kendal Tools & Machinery

THIS COMPACT MACHINE IS SUITABLE FOR ALL HOME WOODWORKERS, DIY ENTHUSIASTS AND CRAFTSMEN. FOR REAL CONVENIENCE, THE TF50E IS COMPACT AND UNOBTRUSIVE – IDEAL FOR BENCH-TOP USE IN THE HOME WORKSHOP. Holzstar TF50E Router table bench mounted complete with 1/4" and 1/2" collets. This unit comes...
www.kendaltools.co.uk www.kendaltools.co.uk
 
I have no comment on that router shaper table, but my trend table with a T11 in it is a very powerful bit of kit. The above-table height adjustment to me is essential. I can easily spin a 25mm parallel cutter for rebating, and have a large panel raiser cutter that you could not possibly use hand-held. The really big advantage to me however over hand-held is the ability to profile quite small stock - hand-held it is very difficult to keep the router perfectly upright and/or have enough body on the piece to run a fence against.

On a table, just set it, adjust the feather guides and push the stock through. You can work to a very high accuracy - I aim for 0.1mm and probably achieve 0.2mm which means when profiling for scribed joints (e.g. on frames) you get a good height match between the pieces. I don't think I could achieve that hand-held.

That table looks the same as this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scheppach-HF50-240V-Router-Table-1500/dp/B01BU0CYDE I suspect you get what you pay for.....
 
mrrusty said:
IMHO you have a good table (I've done loads on mine) but not a great router. I've had budget routers before. The last a ryobi which I retired when the top bearing became wobbly in the plastic moulding. In a table you can use bigger cutters and they'll be further out because of the need to project through the table. You need something powerful and robust, so although what you have might be good for now, I would plan to get a new machine to mount in the table.

With regard to inserting router bits, in a table I often find 1/4" cutters a bit on the short side because they need to project that bit further. I tend to use mine in a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer which allows me to gain a few mm of height and still keep the cutter deep enough on its shaft.
Click to expand...


Yeah I'll be upgrading in the future to a trend router that is compatible with this table but for now I want to find a way of mounting this router I have just for this project although I'm thinking of just bitting the bullet and buy a new router now. I was thinking of the T8ek which is ideal for this table.



www.google.com

Trend T8EK 2200W 1/2" Electric Router 240V - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.ie. Trade-focused and engineered for both hand-held and router table use. Ideal for lock morticing (with 80mm plunge capacity), kitchen fitting, worktop jointing and timber profiling. Precision centring system to ensure perfect concentricity between cutter and guide bush...
www.google.com www.google.com
 
Just a follow up on this thread. I got the new router although just something that concerns me. Am I doing something wrong..

Router screwed onto table. When I turn the part to lift it, it's very tight but when I loosen it, it's easy enough. I'm afraid to twist this part to much Incase I break something. Any tips on how to use it.



IMG_20240621_173835683.jpg
 
Obviously make sure the plunge clamp is loosened off. I have a bit of grease on my threaded bit, and I do tend to wind mine up and down with a socket in a cordless for the large adjustments (just be careful not to wind it off the end!!). It should be pretty easy both ways unless something is distorted
 
mrrusty said:
Obviously make sure the plunge clamp is loosened off. I have a bit of grease on my threaded bit, and I do tend to wind mine up and down with a socket in a cordless for the large adjustments (just be careful not to wind it off the end!!). It should be pretty easy both ways unless something is distorted
Click to expand...


It's a brand new table and router. I have the clamp loosened off but still it's very tight to wind up. Feels like it'll break if I keep forcing it.

Any videos of yours winding up and down a d how you've it set underneath
 
Take it out the table and see if it is the same. Sorry, no vid at the moment. It really should be about the same both ways. The brass nut should spin easily on the thread bar -
 
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