Updated light switched and power socket but not sure which ones to buy?

As they're metal, the light switches need extra earthing which isn't there at the minute. You'll need some copper wire (a meter of 1mm Twin and earth), and earth sleeve to complete the job.
 
Light switches are usually 10AX, didn't know they could be 16AX.

Doesn't really matter if the 13A sockets are single or double pole.

A light switch with two terminals is a 1-way.
Three terminals is a 2-way.
Four terminals is an intermediate.
 
Light switches are usually 10AX, didn't know they could be 16AX.

Doesn't really matter if the 13A sockets are single or double pole.

A light switch with two terminals is a 1-way.
Three terminals is a 2-way.
Four terminals is an intermediate.


Thanks for the info. I'll check my current switches and count the terminals.
This are the range I'm thinking of getting.
 

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You'll need some copper wire (a meter of 1mm Twin and earth), and earth sleeve

Is it not easier to use 6491x wire to do those box to faceplate connections?

Gaz :)

It's not exactly difficult with a bit of earth stripped out of t + e and a bit of sleeving either, both of which are generally more readily available than some conduit wire to the general public.
 
more readily available than some conduit wire to the general public.

Despite my eBay link included in the post for one metre of 1.5mm² for £1.20 with free P&P. ;)

Sleeving is annoying and fiddly, it moves about! Last time I used some twin and earth at home, I bought some green/yellow heatshrink instead of sleeving to go on the CPC so it would stay put! (y)

Gaz :)
 
The earth goes to the box, but if he's using metal light swtiches, then it'll need to go to the face plate as well.
 
The earth goes to the box, but if he's using metal light swtiches, then it'll need to go to the face plate as well.
Oh - sorry - I hadn't realised that they were welded to the box, I thought they could be moved to the switch faceplate.

You clown.
 
more readily available than some conduit wire to the general public.

Despite my eBay link included in the post for one metre of 1.5mm² for £1.20 with free P&P. ;)
Or despite the fact that B&Q (other sheds are available) sell it?

Nope, more likely to have a bit of sleeving and an offcut of wire because those things are needed or are generated regardless.

Anyway, what about the earthing of that metal faceplate. Are you happy with just the screws, or would you rather see a bit of wire? Edit - you've already answered.
 
The earth goes to the box, but if he's using metal light swtiches, then it'll need to go to the face plate as well.
Oh - sorry - I hadn't realised that they were welded to the box, I thought they could be moved to the switch faceplate.

You clown.

No wonder people have you on the ignore button. Why do you have to attack, everything??

From the photo even I can see three conductors there with G/Y sleeving. Most faceplate earth terminals are not big enough for three conductors crammed in there.
What's more it makes the faceplate a PITA to deal with as the existing earth conductors will usually be too short.

In my experience, it is much better to provide an additional length of suitable cable to extend from the existing earth terminal on the box to the front plate.
 
Sorry you think I'm stupid Ban all sheds, but as I have aspergers, I don't look at things the same way as you do. I spot things others miss, but sometimes completely miss the obvious - you're completely right in that the metal screw would form an earth to the back box, but the autistic part of me is pedantic, and that means I'd earth the switch, so that it's always protected - even when not screwed into the back box. And as to my comment on the "middle" light switch, as Infinity was compiling a list bits he needed, I assumed from his description of how the lights were operated, that there was one down stairs, one upstairs (which would have been an intermediate), and then a further one at the end of the corridor. We're all working from a distance, and sometime we're right, and sometime wrong.
 
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