Weeping compression nut on gate valve & Shower Valve

If you are proceeding then go and get 3/4" copper olives, much easier to compress that brass. Gate valves will be useless in a few years if they're not regularly used, if you really want valves then swap them out for lever.
 
When I restored my place, I replaced the old 3/4" stuff with 22mm as necessary. The olives I used were known as 'converter' types and they were brass with a groove all the way round - this would help the olive compress. They were also coated in a splash of green lacquer.
A 3/4" olive should be just fine in your situation and it should be snug on the pipe. There's a good chance you aren't tightening it up enough.....use two large adjustable spanners, one on the valve body and one on the suspect nut and heave them up.
A gate valve really belongs in the days of steam.....they rely on the sluice principle to make a seal as there is no washer but often don't shut off fully. Having no washer meant they were used on oil supply pipes in the past but it's lever arm type all the way now.
John :)

thanks for ur reply, i will give them another go
 
If you are proceeding then go and get 3/4" copper olives, much easier to compress that brass. Gate valves will be useless in a few years if they're not regularly used, if you really want valves then swap them out for lever.

mmmmm the old ones i replaced failed to close hence why i replace them like for like but now i think i might change them to lever ones then... but i dont know which ones to get.... its only to isolate the bathroom
 
Pegler are the make of choice.......originally made in Doncaster and hopefully still are!
Screwfix et al have a good range.
John :)
 
Pegler are the make of choice.......originally made in Doncaster and hopefully still are!
Screwfix et al have a good range.
John :)

wished i posted here before i started the bathroom :( , ive read that lever arm are full bore compared to gate valve which the bore looks like 15mm.
 
so my plan now is remove both gate valves and replace with pegler lever arm, hopefully tighten more on the olive and remove shower valve elbow and wrap a bit more thread on the male thread.... let you know my progress :) thanks all for your advice
 
3/4 copper olives

Where can I get these copper olives from no where seems to sell them, I can only find these on the Internet thabks
 
Fingers cross everything seems OK, I didn't replace the gate valves as the lever ball was heavy and weighing down on the pipes, loctite 55 seems to work really well on the elbow compression , I wrapped the same amount as the ptfe before and feels really solid when tightening, and the gate valve is not weeping as I could tighten more with 3/4 copper olive . I'm really hoping this will hold now as it took me so long to sort out. I like to say thank you guys for your advice :)
 
I have to say that all your woes would be solved if you used a soldered 3/4" to 22 mm fitting to convert the pipe to 22 mm before it goes into the gate valve.

That is probably what most better plumbers would do!

Of course some would continue with your bodge and add some gas PTFE/ Locktite 55/anaerobic tape and when it weeps again after a couple of days they will not answer their phones!
 
I have to say that all your woes would be solved if you used a soldered 3/4" to 22 mm fitting to convert the pipe to 22 mm before it goes into the gate valve.

That is probably what most better plumbers would do!

Of course some would continue with your bodge and add some gas PTFE/ Locktite 55/anaerobic tape and when it weeps again after a couple of days they will not answer their phones!


Hi there

Yes you are right, that is the better solution, this has come across my mind but I have mo experience in soldering. Wish I did :)
 
The thing to remember is that not all compression cones fit properly into the different makes of valve. The nut was more than likely running out of thread before it tightened up the foreign cone fully. Glad you've got it sorted now, though it's always nice to know where you were going wrong.
 
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