what can I fix this architrave to?

[redhexagonal]

Perhaps annotate your picture with what you intend to stick where, and a picture of the architrave.

Hope you can see whats going on from these

 

[Tigercubrider]

I misunderstood your issue.
so you have an architrave that needs to fit between the closed door edge and a squint wall?
The architrave is too narrow at the bottom but would leave a gap at the top if fitted directly?

if so, cut the architrave down to the narrowest gap so that it is parallel, and cut a second piece of architrave at an angle to meet the sloped/squint wall. Glue the two bits edge to edge then fix to the edge?

 

[opps]

Can't you chisel away the excess timber so that it is flush, or just behind the door liner. Alternatively, move the door liner, but only if the door liner is out of plumb.

The path of least resistance, might be a 4(?)mm fillet all of the way around that only touches the door liner. Glue it to the architrave and then pin and glue the architrave.

Photos of both sides might help.

 

[redhexagonal]

I misunderstood your issue.
so you have an architrave that needs to fit between the closed door edge and a squint wall?
The architrave is too narrow at the bottom but would leave a gap at the top if fitted directly?

if so, cut the architrave down to the narrowest gap so that it is parallel, and cut a second piece of architrave at an angle to meet the sloped/squint wall. Glue the two bits edge to edge then fix to the edge?

Not really…the architrave fits ok on the frame between the hinges and the wall to the right, but theres a void behind the architrave that I need to fill with something so I can nail/glue the architrave to it (the frame is only 20mm wide so not much to nail to) . Some spacer type wedges or something. I thought about bonding or foam but seems like a bodge

 

[redhexagonal]

Can't you chisel away the excess timber so that it is flush, or just behind the door liner. Alternatively, move the door liner, but only if the door liner is out of plumb.

The path of least resistance, might be a 4(?)mm fillet all of the way around that only touches the door liner. Glue it to the architrave and then pin and glue the architrave.

Photos of both sides might help.

There is no excess timber, theres a void behind the architrave

 

[thomp1983]

I'd probably use plasterboard foam

Soudal Genius Gun Plasterboard Adhesive Foam

Soudal Plasterboard Adhesive Foam is a fast curing replacement for traditional mortar adhesives. Use it to fill cavities and for bonding plasterboard to walls. You'll find that this foam is suitable for use on all common materials such as concrete, stone, plaster and wood.The adhesive comes...

www.toolstation.com

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm not sure how to make tapered strips.

You don't use tapered strips. If nothing else because they will more than likely make getting decent mitred corners on your architraves impossible. The idea is to pack out the door casing with a strip of narrow material and attachvthd architrave to that. This is glued and pinned to the edge of the door casing, as below. Where the packing strip sits proud of the plasterboard you add grip adhesive between the PB and the back of the packing strip. Where the PB is proud of the door casing, you run a knife line down the PB (at the width of the packing strip) and then chop out the PB so you can lay the filler piece in flat. Use a Surform or an old chisel to dig yhe excess out. It won't be seen so can be a bit rough. Only take out as much as you need to and no more.

Large gaps can be filled by adding a strip of wood to the back of the architrave before fixing it, or once the architrave is fixed in place outside gaps can be packed with something like Fossa Caulk Saver (or similar - your local Dulux Trade Centre, or similar, will sell this type of product) or low expansion foam. The gap can then be caulked with decorators caulk

Edit: a bit late responding, but I didn't manage to post it this morning on my way to work, only just managed to post it on my way home. So apologies if I have duplicated any other posts

 

[redhexagonal]

You don't use tapered strips. If nothing else because they will more than likely make getting decent mitred corners on your architraves impossible. The idea is to pack out the door casing with a strip of narrow material and attachvthd architrave to that. This is glued and pinned to the edge of the door casing, as below. Where the packing strip sits proud of the plasterboard you add grip adhesive between the PB and the back of the packing strip. Where the PB is proud of the door casing, you run a knife line down the PB (at the width of the packing strip) and then chop out the PB so you can lay the filler piece in flat. Use a Surform or an old chisel to dig yhe excess out. It won't be seen so can be a bit rough. Only take out as much as you need to and no more.

View attachment 292897

Large gaps can be filled by adding a strip of wood to the back of the architrave before fixing it, or once the architrave is fixed in place outside gaps can be packed with something like Fossa Caulk Saver (or similar - your local Dulux Trade Centre, or similar, will sell this type of product) or low expansion foam. The gap can then be caulked with decorators caulk

Edit: a bit late responding, but I didn't manage to post it this morning on my way to work, only just managed to post it on my way home. So apologies if I have duplicated any other posts

All good info, but my case is different, the casing is proud of the timber/plasterboard around the casing. So there is a void behind the architrave that needs filling with something solid I can fix the architrave to. Basically I overboarded the wall so i had to widen the door casing and now theres nothing on that side to nail the architrave to

 

[Deleted member 174758]

All good info, but my case is different, the casing is proud of the timber/plasterboard around the casing.

The rip is fixed flush to the door lining (you have a lining rather than a rebated casing) as in dwg 2 of my previous post but the gap between the packing piece and the plaster is filled with gobs of grip adhesive every 100mm or so. You will need to check that the face of the packing piece is at right angles to the opening of the door lining (this requires a combination square). It will probably need to be left to set a couple of days in this cold weather hefore attachingbthe architrave (and only use a solvent-based adhesive because water-based ones aren't setting at all quickly in this cold weather). I did touch on this on my original response:

Where the packing strip sits proud of the plasterboard you add grip adhesive between the PB and the back of the packing strip.

 

[redhexagonal]

The rip is fixed flush to the door lining (you have a lining rather than a rebated casing) as in dwg 2 of my previous post but the gap between the packing piece and the plaster is filled with gobs of grip adhesive every 100mm or so. You will need to check that the face of the packing piece is at right angles to the opening of the door lining (this requires a combination square). It will probably need to be left to set a couple of days in this cold weather hefore attachingbthe architrave (and only use a solvent-based adhesive because water-based ones aren't setting at all quickly in this cold weather). I did touch on this on my original response:

Is there amy reason why I shouldnt just use big gobs of adhesive to attach the architrave to the timber/plaster directly? i’m not clear what the packing piece is for.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Because you won't be able to get the mitres to join correctly (mitre joints are supposed to be tight and if the require caulk or filler then it's a bodge which can move and crack in the future). There is also a need to get a mechanical fixing through the architrave and into the door lining, not least in part because the architraves help stiffen the door casing, which at 20mm is very thin, and with only 10mm of material to work with (allowing for a 10mm reveal) is difficult to achieve unless you possess a 2nd fix nail gun. Applying a packer side steps the issue and gives you a wider base on which to plant your architrave