Why don't my lights work?

If I was to apply for building regulations and employed an electrician to do the work,
there would be no requirement for this forum. D.I.Y. (Do it yourself......o_O)
I'm fully aware of the risk of electric shock,
i take guidance from a qualified electrician when i get stuck,
but the physical work I do myself.
I'm not an electrician and don't pretend to be, I am an electro-mechanical engineer by trade,
so would expect to be classed as a 'competent person'.
With guidance we can all achieve the required results.:)

Like i said, i will post pics later
 
If I was to apply for building regulations and employed an electrician to do the work,
there would be no requirement for this forum. D.I.Y. (Do it yourself......o_O)
Err - why does the option of applying for Building Regulations approval AND doing the work competently yourself not occur to you? Is your position an admission that you know full well that if you were to apply for approval there's no way that you personally would be able to work to the necessary standards?


I'm fully aware of the risk of electric shock,
So why do you think that switching on and seeing if it works is all that is required in the way of testing?


I'm not an electrician and don't pretend to be
By doing the work you did, that is exactly the pretence you engaged in.


so would expect to be classed as a 'competent person'.
You would be disappointed there.


With guidance we can all achieve the required results.
But not after the event when things you thought you had done OK turned out not to be OK.

If you really were genuinely competent to install CUs and final circuits then you would never have done it the way you have shown, and you would never have needed to come here after doing it to ask why your lights don't work properly.
 
Well, i brought my electrician friend round and it was 2 issues.
I wired the 2nd lamp into the loop instead of live and i had trapped a piece of insulation in the 1st lamp live.
2 minutes and i'm sorted.
Thanks for the suggestions and advice.
(y)
 
The backward connection at the main incoming RCD is a pretty major mistake, both incoming tails must enter the incomer at the TOP, with the neutral link leaving the BOTTOM of the RCD to connect with the neutral bar.
I once found a "factory" wiring mistake on a new Wylex board, with the neutral link connected to the LIVE output of the incomer - thank god I check everything before use, and removed the neutral link, and replaced it in its proper position before use.
 
I wired the 2nd lamp into the loop instead of live and i had trapped a piece of insulation in the 1st lamp live.
I ... would expect to be classed as a 'competent person'.
cowboy-shaking-head.gif



2 minutes and i'm sorted.
What chance, I wonder, that this has taught you that you are incompetent and deluded, and should never do electrical installation work again?
 
incoming tails must enter the incomer at the TOP, with the neutral link leaving the BOTTOM of the RCD to connect with the neutral bar
Not strictly true. Depends on the manufacturer. The majority yes, but Square D still make boards the other way around
I once found a "factory" wiring mistake on a new Wylex board, with the neutral link connected to the LIVE output of the incomer - thank god I check everything before use, and removed the neutral link, and replaced it in its proper position before use.
They'd jammed the neutral in with the busbar? Or the busbar wasn't in? You'd have struggled not to notice that, but if you will buy tat
 
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