Wiring help for kitchen, slave and master (Lightwave)

ban-all-sheds said:
By identifying conductors using a multimeter, which is an essential tool to have as soon as you decide to start doing electrical work.
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Check - I've various multimeters, cable tracers scattered around. I've only used the cable tracers in network environments, but can't see why they won't work with normal cables. (Clue to my background is in my username :p )
My biggest downfall is being colourblind, but I manage around that with best guessing colours or getting someone to confirm for me when needed. Thus the partly 'Gre..' hand hand written onto the scanned paper. Wife was naturally about to fill all the colours in for me before I stopped her ... "Woah, don't do that... I might need to return them!" :ROFLMAO:
 
RFC1795 said:
See if there is a way to trace if any run between the two points.
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It is highly likely the red yellow blue 3 core runs directly from switch to switch, if its a kitchen diner and your confident there is not another switch.

As ban says draw the wires on your drawing, then redraw the lightwave drawing , then draw your wiring and colours with the lightwave connections.
To me it apears you have the right switches and enough wires.
Treat 1 light circuit at at a time and its quite logical

Bear in mind the red and black wire is at the single switch end rather than at the double switch shown in the Lightwave drawing, though as BAN says that is not a problem
Post your final drawing here .
 
333rocky333 said:
It is highly likely the red yellow blue 3 core runs directly from switch to switch, if its a kitchen diner and your confident there is not another switch.

As ban says draw the wires on your drawing, then redraw the lightwave drawing , then draw your wiring and colours with the lightwave connections.
To me it apears you have the right switches and enough wires.
Treat 1 light circuit at at a time and its quite logical

Bear in mind the red and black wire is at the single switch end rather than at the double switch shown in the Lightwave drawing, though as BAN says that is not a problem
Post your final drawing here .
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Busy with it now. There's no other switch in between the 2 points that I'm aware of. Is it possible there might be one that could be overlooked?
 
It's possible, yes. But "overlooked" must surely mean "hidden by or in something"?

IF there's a switch then however it is set it will be giving you the end-to-end connectivity you need. Colours may change, but you'll see the equivalents of straight-through conductors - you'd have to if the 2 switches you do know about work as expected in a 2-way arrangement.

IF there's a switch, worry about it if you find it.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
It's possible, yes. But "overlooked" must surely mean "hidden by or in something"?

IF there's a switch then however it is set it will be giving you the end-to-end connectivity you need. Colours may change, but you'll see the equivalents of straight-through conductors - you'd have to if the 2 switches you do know about work as expected in a 2-way arrangement.

IF there's a switch, worry about it if you find it.
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Ah, right.. Thanks, that makes sense. I don't think there is anything else int he way of the two as I'm sure I would have seen it. Was a bit worried it might be closed off in a wall or something :D
Right... I've done some tracing and tests. I'll upload a PDF copy within the next 5 min.
 
Attached is a detailed PDF copy of the current wiring I traced out and tested. If that doesn't work, let me know.
I've tried to be thorough and capture everything into one page. Hopefully I've not forgotten something and that it is clear enough to follow, if not please shout up and I'll adjust or whatever.
Thanks for looking and all the comments ... really appreciate it! Feel like I'm a whole lot closer to the end after this exercise at least :)
 

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Wow - excellent.

That is correct except that Red 2 will not be the same wire as Red D.
They will be separate wires both connected to the supply somewhere - most likely at their associated lights (they could be on different circuits, though not likely in your case) - the same as Black 1 and Black C.

The RT which we call a sleeve is to signify that the wire is at some time a Line(live).
It's called Line (instead of live) because technically a Neutral is a live wire.



Although it would make no difference functionally, my OCD would cause me to swap Yellow E-5 with Red A-4, then Red A-4 would be the permanent line along with Red D.
 
EFLImpudence said:
Wow - excellent.

That is correct except that Red 2 will not be the same wire as Red D.
They will be separate wires both connected to the supply somewhere - most likely at their associated lights (they could be on different circuits, though not likely in your case) - the same as Black 1 and Black C.

The RT which we call a sleeve is to signify that the wire is at some time a Line(live).
It's called Line (instead of live) because technically a Neutral is a live wire.



Although it would make no difference functionally, my OCD would cause me to swap Yellow E-5 with Red A-4, then Red A-4 would be the permanent line along with Red D.
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Ah, thanks... I did suspect that might be the case with those red wires.

My big question now is which labelled wire should go where on the new switches? Wanting to be sure before I cable and power anything up.
Tried calling LightwaveRF tech support, but it keeps answering with a message that LightwaveRF is unavailable then drops the call. Not cool (n)
 
I have marked the terminals on your diagram.
Note the single switch looks different but its not really if you swap red and yellow as I suggested.

The only thing that is crucial is that the same wire connects to S at both two-way switches.

upload_2017-5-22_16-59-55.png
 
Here is a simple diagram which will help you see what is happening.

You will see it doesn't matter at which end you connect the supply live and switched live
or wherever you connect either to the relevant conductor.
The only crucial requirement is that the same wire connects to Com (or S in your case) at both ends.

upload_2017-5-22_17-33-39.png
 
EFLImpudence said:
Here is a simple diagram which will help you see what is happening.

You will see it doesn't matter at which end you connect the supply live and switched live
or wherever you connect either to the relevant conductor.
The only crucial requirement is that the same wire connects to Com (or S in your case) at both ends.

View attachment 119657
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Thanks again... Still in the process of working out what the final connections go where. But here's an updated PDF with page 2 showing the new switches with label points added for clarity.
So far I'm thinking these connections:
E to H
5 to N
2 to O <?>
And... stuck :D .. needing to sort dinner out and try get this up before darkness falls lol. Hectic!
 

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EFLImpudence said:
Did you miss my post above where I put the terminals on your diagram?
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Ah right, I did see that. Sorry if I'm a bit dim here, I actually thought you were showing me the labels for how it was wired to the old switches :oops: ... I'll have a look at that again in a bit. Right now I'm expected to sort the lights, while cooking, sort flat pack build out and get back to my actual overdue work at some point too. It's going to be a long night - sigh
 
Hey all...!! It is done!!! Switches are installed and working well. Managed to fit it in late tonight even though I wasn't planning to, and after telling the wife I'll only get round to it the weekend. (Who would have thought a flat-pack bed would contain around 1000 pieces!? (And there's 2 to build!) .. still not complete. OH's job now :p .. She's doing great, other than complaining for lack of light downstairs... thus the effort to complete these switch installs now LOL .. might also have been my excuse not to help build them with her and rather sort the light switches, but hey!.. we'll keep quiet about that yes... :p )

Anyway, thank you all for the valued input. :notworthy: .. I was really nervous doing these ones as they sounded so finicky and would break if done wrong. Your valued input also helped me think outside of the box in ways. Without it, I think I'd be waiting on an electrician to come fleece me. (Sorry if you're reading to the cancelled one from last week, I decided I'll keep the switches and give it a go myself rather than re-wiring the house potentially.)

Hopefully someone in future might find the attached useful at the least. It's an updated PDF of the one I initially worked through, with a final page of where I ended up wiring things up ... if anyone spots any glaring errors, please let me know and I'll adjust and update the file.

But again ... Thanks for your time and input diynot.com members! Great site, that I'll frequent more in the future no doubt!

Cheers... TJ / RFC1795
 

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