Wiring Hive Smart Thermostat to Combi Boiler

Thanks, it's all up and running now the existing timer was overriding the hive so I've disconnected the old rotary timer and put the link wire in it's place so the power is always on to the Hive which is all connected up and working, even got it connected to my Amazon echo:D

Thanks for all your help....
 
Hi koldjg,

I've used a separate feed for earth as I only had the standard 3 core but that four core cable is perfect.

Cheers
 
Just wanted to say thanks very much for this thread - I've just installed the same smart thermostat on the same boiler, and it's working perfectly :)
 
FAO Jrevans,

Hi, I've just wired in my hive using this diagram (attached I hope). All lights are on and nothing has blown so I think I've wired it in correctly. Just wondering how you removed your old rotary RF thermostat? I think its overriding my hive and id like to remove it! Any help much appreciated :)
 

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Irrelevant.

If he has provided a separate earth and used the cpc of the cable for a live conductor because it only had that and two other cores, and he needed to do this:

screenshot_1437.jpg


then he has done wrong.
 
Hi there,
This looks like a similar problem to what I have. I replaced my Honeywell thermostat with the hive receiver.
Green lights are on the receiver and hive thinks it's working, however the boiler isn't coming on. I've put the manual timer on my boiler to on constantly so this shouldn't override.

I've only got 3 terminals perm live, perm neutral and heating on connected. Do I need a little single cable to connect perm live to common?

Thanks in advance,
Ben
 
Hi Bbben and welcome to the forum.

If the Honeywell only had three wires connected (not counting an earth) originally, then yes you do need a link between 'live' and 'com'.

The 'com' and 'heating on' are just a voltage free switch, so you need to apply voltage to the 'com' for it to switch to the 'heating on'.

For future reference, it's best to start a new thread with a question of your own. Tagging you question on to someone else's is known as hijacking and is against the forum rules. Plus, there is more chance of someone seeing it more quickly as a new thread, rather than burying at the end of an old one.[/URL]
 
Thanks for the reply. All sorted.
Sorry I didn't realise that was a thing.
 
Hi,

Just signed up and hope it's OK to continue adding to this post.

I found this as I'm looking to change out my Altec thermostat to a hive controller and having done a little bit of electrical work before thought it cant be that difficult to change over.

Hopefully attached should be a rather crude drawing of how my current thermostat is currently connected up. For the avoidance of any doubt could someone please advise which of the drawings on page 1 of this post I should follow?

Thanks in advance.
Boiler.jpg
 
having done a little bit of electrical work before thought it cant be that difficult to change over.

In that case, and as the terminals are marked the same for both thermostats, I'm a bit surprised you need to ask.

First and foremost, you will need the Single Channel Version of the Hive.

N and L are the Neutral and Live, so the same for both Altec and Hive.
Altec NO = Hive NO, heating on (terminal 3)
Altec COM = Hive Common (terminal 1)

However, please also note some earlier comments:
the Nest [or Hive in this case*] should be powered from the same isolator that switches off the power to the boiler, and not from a separate power source.
*Added by Stem

For future reference, it's best to start a new thread with a question of your own. Tagging you question on to someone else's is known as hijacking and is against the forum rules. Plus, there is more chance of someone seeing it more quickly as a new thread, rather than burying at the end of an old one.
 
I agree about the hijacking, Stem. I basically hate reading through two pages of the old thread, only to find something not quite the same tagged on the end.
I don’t read and don’t respond to the hijack as a result.
 
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