Wiring NEST 3rd GEN to Y-Plan, check my wiring please

D_Hailsham said:
...An immersion needs it own 15A supply. The heating system needs a 3A fused supply, normally from the ring main.
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So if I provide 3A fused mains to the 10-way junction box at 1,2,3, and I connect the immersion heater to the spur provided we are fine from a mains current point of view?
The boiler downstairs must then connect to the 10-way junction in the connection in connections 2,3 and 8? Instead of the immersion heater setup I currently have?
D_Hailsham said:
Why is the stat you are holding not wired into the junction box? It controls the temperature of the water in the cylinder.
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It is connected mate, to connectors 6,7 and 8 on the 10-way which I traced to C,1 and 2 on the stat correctly? See image above. Does this thermostat talk wirelesly to the immersion heater then?

Thanks for your help with this,

Mat
 
Right guys, gave it another hour tonight.

I've disconnected the Immersion Heater from the 10-way junction, and provided it the spur to itself.
I've also fed to that empty patress on the wall from the RM and changed its fuse to 3A.
I've re-attached the thermostat back onto the Immersion heater also.

Hows the wiring looking now? Boiler now has 3 core mains flex going down to it, will leave it as 3 cores for now. Does this connect to 2,3 and 8?

Mat
 
[GALLERY=media, 99755]Two now seperate by ProjectMat posted 22 May 2017 at 10:56 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 99754]check my wiring. now labelled. by ProjectMat posted 22 May 2017 at 10:56 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 99756]Thermostat replaced by ProjectMat posted 22 May 2017 at 10:56 PM[/GALLERY]
 
FFS mate seriously get a pro in to do this for you as you're clearly out of your depth! Your wiring skills are appalling, no strain relief on any of the cables, colour coding all over the place, too much exposed copper on show on some connections and i dread to think how you've supplied power to that new 3amp switched spur. Never ceases to amaze me how many people will 'have a go' at electrics when they have absolutely no idea, yet they would never touch gas 'as that's dangerous'. I'm not saying this lightly but please for you and your families safety get a pro in to wire that up correctly and safely for you, I doubt it would cost all that much either if you find someone local.
 
dannyboi2003 said:
FFS mate seriously get a pro in to do this for you as you're clearly out of your depth! Your wiring skills are appalling, no strain relief on any of the cables, colour coding all over the place, too much exposed copper on show on some connections and i dread to think how you've supplied power to that new 3amp switched spur.
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Thanks for the encouraging words.
As I said above, the wiring will be tidied up once confirmed it is correct. As for the colouring I have reused some of the existing wires, which already had no discernable colour order.
The new 3A feed is supplied on 13A flex from the Ringmain as suggested above.

Mat
 
ProjectMat said:
Thanks for the encouraging words.
As I said above, the wiring will be tidied up once confirmed it is correct. As for the colouring I have reused some of the existing wires, which already had no discernable colour order.
The new 3A feed is supplied on 13A flex from the Ringmain as suggested above.

Mat
Click to expand...

The spur is unlikely to be compliant with the wiring regulations. You must use 2.5mm² from the ring final to the fused spur. 1.5mm² may be acceptable if the length and mechanical protection afforded is acceptable. From the FCU to the junction box, the flex is fine.

I would not be happy with the single insulated cables between the junction box and the Nest, the flex to the cylinder stat should be replaced with 4 core - Green/Yellow conductor must never be used for anything other than the CPC.

You still need to supply the boiler. Too much copper is on show at the terminals on the Nest.

The rest looks like it could be OK, but I would suggest you sort out the basic issues first (mixed wiring colours etc)
 
Okay guys,

Thanks to everyone for the feedback and all your help so far,

I will replace the feed, and update all the wiring tonight to reflect what everyone is saying.

Thanks again,

Mat
 
ProjectMat said:
I've disconnected the Immersion Heater from the 10-way junction, and provided it the spur to itself.
Click to expand...
The immersion must be supplied by a separate connection fed directly from the consumer unit not from the ring main. There should be an outlet on the consumer unit labelled Immersion with a 15A fuse.

PS The cylinder thermostat does not talk wirelessly to the immersion; the two things are completely independent. Normally the cylinder is heated by boiler water passing through a coil in the cylinder. The 3-way valve controls the route taken by the water (radiators, coil, or both) The Honeywell cylinder stat stops the flow though the coil when the cylinder water is up to temperature (60C). The immersion heater is just a standby, in the event of a fault with the normal method of heating, e.g a faulty motorized valve.
 
aptsys said:
You still need to supply the boiler
Click to expand...
Working down the list mate, can you clarify one thing for me please? The boiler has its own spur downstairs with an isolated switch, should it be powered from up here? Or will this 3core that I am passing down to the boiler act as signal cable only?

Thanks again for your help guys,
Mat
 
ProjectMat said:
Working down the list mate, can you clarify one thing for me please? The boiler has its own spur downstairs with an isolated switch, should it be powered from up here? Or will this 3core that I am passing down to the boiler act as signal cable only?

Thanks again for your help guys,
Mat
Click to expand...

If this is the case, you should not be supplying your new arrangement in the way you have. There should be one common isolation point - i.e. this complete setup should be powered from the FCU at the boiler, and then you need to feed the boiler from your junction box.
 
aptsys said:
There should be one common isolation point - i.e. this complete setup should be powered from the FCU at the boiler, and then you need to feed the boiler from your junction box.
Click to expand...
Okay, I can do this easily enough.

So just to confirm, the Immersion Heater remains on the 16A fused spur upstairs.
The 3A fused isolation switch I fitted upstairs on 2.5mm to the ringmain is now disconnected and takes its feed from the isolation switch by the boiler.
Then I run flex from the boiler to the 10-way junction box, connections 2,3 and 8

Thanks for everyones help with this,
Mat
 
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ProjectMat said:
I've re-attached the thermostat back onto the Immersion heater also.
Click to expand...
Just read that; and I am very concerned.

If you are talking about the Honeywell L641A thermostat, DISCONNECT IT IMMEDIATELY from the IMMERSION HEATER. The immersion heater, which has its own thermostat under the cover, is connected directly to the 15A spur.
 
Jamie & magicspanner said:
Mat... just checking your ok m8 :)
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Fine thanks :)

I've updated all the wiring as above. This includes the spur downstairs, which now feeds the 10way, the nest, and the boiler as discussed. Thanks for all your help on this guys

D_Hailsham said:
Just read that; and I am very concerned. If you are talking about the Honeywell L641A thermostat, DISCONNECT IT IMMEDIATELY from the IMMERSION HEATER. The immersion heater, which has its own thermostat under the cover, is connected directly to the 15A spur.
Click to expand...
I've just reattached it to the side of the tank mate, i just used the wrong term sorry. It's not connected to the wiring for the Immersion Heater, nothing is.
 
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