Godamned Hammerite!

davecooper said:
I agree with the tip about warming the paint up a bit, makes life so much easier. The thinners/cleaner are expensive, it is cheaper to buy cheap brushes and ditch afterwards. Drip prevention is just a case of taking care.
Good stuff when used properly.
Click to expand...

Just use white spirit as thinners, if you read the small print on the can it says that it contains white spirit.
 
I don't believe that's correct.

I believe the thinner is trichlorethylene.
 
I thought it was a zylene based paint? So have used cellulose thinners in past to clean brushes (Cellulose has Xylene in it, doesn't it?)

Isn't trichloroethylene banned now?

James
 
practicing for a new job?
gravedigger?
the last post on this thread was 2007... 2 years ago.. I recon he's got some new brushes by now.. :wink:
 
you'd think that there would be some kind of home powdercoating kit by now..
spray the powder on and then use a blowtorch to melt it on..
 
Or negative charged powder and stick 240volts through the wrought iron gates before throwing the contents of the tin at it!
(Best to get the missus to do this last bit :wink: )
 
you have to charge both..

the charged powder won't stick to just anything, that's the point of it..
 
No, it comes with an earth cable that you attach to the item to be painted.

The paint is charged to a high voltage relative to earth (the item to be painted or a nearby car :shock: )

If both the paint and the item to be painted were both charged the paint would not be attracted to it.
 
You charge one relative to the other.

The paint is charged in the gun relative to the earth wire.

The item to be painted is at earth potential. You'll not get a shock from it.

If there is object very near that is at earth potential (like a car) it will get painted. The instructions warn you of this. The car is not charged, it's at earth potential, but it attracts the charged paint.
 
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