Yes, Screwfix is just down the road.
Horstmann 425 tiara timer not moving/working.
Thanks guys!
Have you bought a multimeter or managed to get the programmmer going?
Might stop by srewfix tomorrow to get it and the timer still not working.
However, i use the electrical test pen on the backplate to test the wires, only the red ones light up not the black one. Does that means anything?
However, i use the electrical test pen on the backplate to test the wires, only the red ones light up not the black one. Does that means anything?
Not really, I would have expected the red ones to be Live because you can still get the heating etc on with the Horstmann 24hrs override switch. The black Neutral wire would not be expected to light up the tester.
You need a Neutral to complete the circuit which drives the motorised clock dial around and it looks like that is what's missing.
A multimeter would let you measure the voltage between red and black, something you can't really do with a neon tester.
It's possible one or more of the old backplate contacts are corroded and not making a good connection to the main unit so, if you feel confident, carefully swapping all the connections over to your new backplate might fix it.
Unfortunately it may turn out to be a problem in the cable or at the far end. Without a way to measure the voltage you won't know where the Neutral is getting lost.
You need a Neutral to complete the circuit which drives the motorised clock dial around and it looks like that is what's missing.
A multimeter would let you measure the voltage between red and black, something you can't really do with a neon tester.
It's possible one or more of the old backplate contacts are corroded and not making a good connection to the main unit so, if you feel confident, carefully swapping all the connections over to your new backplate might fix it.
Unfortunately it may turn out to be a problem in the cable or at the far end. Without a way to measure the voltage you won't know where the Neutral is getting lost.
Hi Jackthom, sorry i am not clear/understand about "swapping all the connections over", how do you do that?
Thanks
Thanks
When you got a new Horstmann unit did it come with a new backplate? I meant remove the old backplate and wire in the new one.
Hi Jackthom, swapped the backplate still same.
I got the multimeter now, what should i do
?
I got the multimeter now, what should i do
?Make sure the multimeter test leads are connected as below...
..Black test lead plugged into the COM socket on the multimeter
..and Red test lead plugged into the VΩmA socket on the multimeter.
Switch the multimeter to the 600V~ setting which is right next to the OFF position on the dial.
With power switched ON supplying the horstmann backplate, (keep fingers well out)
1) hold the black pointed probe on the backplate screw holding the Earth lead (green/yellow) on left of backplate, and hold the red probe on the Live (Red) wire 3rd from the left.
You should get a steady reading around 240V. It could easily be several volts higher or lower than 240 but that's OK.
2)Now move the black probe onto the next screw holding the Neutral (black) wire, keep the red probe in the same position as before on the Live.
Do you get a steady voltage reading, pretty much the same voltage as in 1) ?
..Black test lead plugged into the COM socket on the multimeter
..and Red test lead plugged into the VΩmA socket on the multimeter.
Switch the multimeter to the 600V~ setting which is right next to the OFF position on the dial.
With power switched ON supplying the horstmann backplate, (keep fingers well out)
1) hold the black pointed probe on the backplate screw holding the Earth lead (green/yellow) on left of backplate, and hold the red probe on the Live (Red) wire 3rd from the left.
You should get a steady reading around 240V. It could easily be several volts higher or lower than 240 but that's OK.
2)Now move the black probe onto the next screw holding the Neutral (black) wire, keep the red probe in the same position as before on the Live.
Do you get a steady voltage reading, pretty much the same voltage as in 1) ?
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I got both reading 250.
Looks like the wiring is all OK then.
When the programmer is fitted back in place, does it fit snugly and evenly close to the wall all the way round?
I'm now wondering if either all of the contacts are not getting pushed far enough onto the backplate or maybe the "new" programmer is also faulty.
When the programmer is fitted back in place, does it fit snugly and evenly close to the wall all the way round?
I'm now wondering if either all of the contacts are not getting pushed far enough onto the backplate or maybe the "new" programmer is also faulty.
It fits well.
Are all the wiring in its position? Because there are two slots, which are not in use (no wire in it).
Are all the wiring in its position? Because there are two slots, which are not in use (no wire in it).
Yes the wiring all looks good in the photos. There are two slots which your system does not use but they could not prevent the timer dial being driven.
Does it never move and does it ever buzz or hum quietly?
Does it never move and does it ever buzz or hum quietly?
Not moving, buzzing or hum.
Did you buy it locally? I'd be inclined to take it back if you've only had it for a short time and it's never worked.
There is a newer digital Horstmann programmer which would fit straight onto that backplate but it costs around £50. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOH21.html?
Screwfix do a much cheaper one which gets good reviews but you would need to change and rewire the new backplate again. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hortsmann-centaurplus-c27-programmer-with-li-ion-battery-back-up/68934
It would be no more difficult than the wiring you've already done.
The user manual will give you an idea of how easy (or hard) it is to operate.
http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/4813/9867/2121/user_guide_CentaurPlus_C27_Series_2_user_web1.pdf
There is a newer digital Horstmann programmer which would fit straight onto that backplate but it costs around £50. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOH21.html?
Screwfix do a much cheaper one which gets good reviews but you would need to change and rewire the new backplate again. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hortsmann-centaurplus-c27-programmer-with-li-ion-battery-back-up/68934
It would be no more difficult than the wiring you've already done.
The user manual will give you an idea of how easy (or hard) it is to operate.
http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/4813/9867/2121/user_guide_CentaurPlus_C27_Series_2_user_web1.pdf
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