Ideal Instinct PCB

[ian1182]

Hopefully I haven't fried the wiser hub too :S

You can verify the Wiser by just connecting L & N to the back plate, leaving 1& 3 unoccuppied. Then perform your setup, add schedules, etc. OK, it won't actually control the boiler but will allow you to see if the hub switches on or off.

Did you take a picture of the Salus wiring prior to disconnection? your ealier picture looked like it was from the boiler.

 

[gas112]

I picked up some fuses but it still blows, makes a lovely electrical burning smell too. Certainly needs a new PCB. Their engineer is coming Saturday and they know it is suspect so he'd better have a pcb on the van. Hopefully he can wire in the Drayton hub too. Had a horrible thought that i'd reversed the L and N wires, but I checked and I still think the wiring is fine. Bit of a mystery tbh! Turns out some things are best left to the pros!

best update him then so he can get a pcb ordered to bring with him

 

[andyp187]

Its tricky to see but the Salus us the box in the middle. This is before I changed anything. The wiring for the salus is written on the box. The wires with the blue topped ferules joining terminal block are the ones from the salus. First two are the frost stat, middle three L, N, E and final two the room stat. Its a bit hard to tell but I think the salus is connected to the neutral but not the live, that seems to be coming from the second terminal of the frost protection which seems odd. There is also a connection from the frost stat back to the first terminal of the room stat and a loop across the room stat

 

[ianmcd]

Are you sure? The instructions state "Power needs to be put on to terminal 1 either by linking from L or a sperate supply". The supply comes from the boiler so my understanding was that it should be there

Yes I am positive, the hive is simply a switch and depending on the boiler some can use a link between L&1 , but if two wires are connected between 1&3 that link is never required, I think your problem is when you had the grey wire connected to the Neutral in the boiler

 

[andyp187]

Ok, so link wire likely not needed. The grey wire went to the room stat though. Is that ok still?

 

[ian1182]

The Salus has 4 connections
1/N - Neutral
2/L - Live
3 - Comm
4 - Normally open

They transfer over to Wiser (or Hive) 1-channel as

1/N -> Wiser N
2/L -> Wiser L
3(Comm) to Wiser 1
4(NO) to Wiser 3

nothing between L & 1 on Wiser

 

[ian1182]

I had not realised the Salus was built into the front of the boiler. Anyway, to ensure we are all on the same page.

The boiler terminal strip has 7 connections. If you number them 1-7 going left to right can you indicate which of the Salus ports went to which terminal block connection. It's hard to see on the photos the actual connections. I think the Salus has a 4-core cable with Red, Blue, black & grey cores. We should then be able to replicate those connections over to the Wiser.

Such as
Salus 1/N "core colour" to "terminal block #?"
Salus 2/L
Salus 3(comm)
Salus 4(NO)

 

[ianmcd]

I think the Salus has a 4-core cable with Red, Blue, black & grey cores

but if you look at the first image the grey from the salus time clock is connected to the incoming Neutral, it gets changed in later pics but I would bet that is what has damaged the PCB

 

[RandomGrinch]

Often a Combi boiler will have voltage free switching which I suspect is your situation. In your case the function of the 1-channel Wiser hub is to "join" terminals 1 & 3 together when on and "disconnect" when off. The Wiser itself needs 240V power but that only goes to L & N. Effectively there is electrical isolation between L/N and 1/3.

I may be very wrong on this
But my belief is that the thermostat connections on the Ideal are on the mains segregated side of the PCB - although there could be isolation between L/N and the thermostat 1/3, it seems likely that the thermostat would be switching mains voltage.
The clearances on the PCB look too tight to have LV and ELV that close together.

If this is the case, and if the OPs wiring replaced the red thermostat bridge wire, with the black and grey cable, then...

Could my wiring of the Drayton controller done it?

Unlikely. It would just have meant there would have been two live wires instead of one, or the SL would have been live when it should have been dead.

but if you look at the first image the grey from the salus time clock is connected to the incoming Neutral,

Sorry Ian, can you highlight this - I may have missed it completely?

 

[ianmcd]

Is that a crack in the PCB?
I can't quite make out the markings on the component.

View attachment 294247

Definately looks like a crack to me

 

[ian1182]

but if you look at the first image the grey from the salus time clock is connected to the incoming Neutral, it gets changed in later pics but I would bet that is what has damaged the PCB

Having looked more closely at "WhatsApp Image 2023-02-01 at 14.15.05.jpeg"

The connections are/were

#1 link to #6 plus another red ??
#2 black to Salus plus another black ??
#3 live to boiler and incoming live
#4 blue to Salus plus blue to boiler and incoming neutral
#5 earth to boiler and incoming earth
#6 red to Salus 2 plus link to #7 plus another red ??
#7 grey to Salus plus link to #6

seems strange why #6 & #7 would be linked in addition to connections to Salus

Anyway hopefully engineer on Saturday can fix the issues.