Support spacings below 8'x4'x18mm ply substrate?

Yes. It doesn't matter if the brackets are a tad too big, only that they don't touch the sub floor and have some clearance (to avoid creaking)
 
Sorry, a bit of a misunderstanding - for some reason I thought you were already using a system with a plastic or rubber "foot" (castle) at the meeting points of joists and "noggins". Hence the comments

If you are making up frames which are directly packed off the floor on packers, then the angle brackets you illustrated will work to fix the timbers, but bear in mind that you do need to also fix through your stacks of packers to ensure they cannot move or shed. Angle brackets aren't needed to fix to the floor if you are using "castles".
 
Ah. Ok.

What's your go-to screw for making up 38mm thk CLS frames?

I have used 5x100 Timco Velocity, but they can strip holes if you're not careful when screwing with the grain.

Presumably frames are glued at top of CLS/underside of ply interface, and frame to frame interface. I suppose glued and screwed timber packs wouldn't hurt.
 
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Probably 5 x 80s.

You normally glue the sub-floor to the joists and any T&G joints. Typical flooring glue is a PU glue with an added filler. Not sure what you mean by "frame to frame interface", but if you are framing out a floor using multiple discrete frames they just need to betightly cramped together then screwed together.
 
I'll Put a frame together tomorrow and see what gives.

There definitely won't be any T&G joints.

Will 100x100 corner brackets from Screwfix be up to the job of supporting the frames off the the conc. base? Or would something a bit more sturdy be needed?

What's the glue filler for? Is there a PU/filler glue available off the shelf that's ready to go or do I need to mix in a filler myself?

What sort of glue thickness under the ply should I allow for? A couple of mil?
 
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Draughtsman said:
Will 100x100 corner brackets from Screwfix be up to the job of supporting the frames off the the conc. base? Or would something a bit more sturdy be needed?
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You cannot just support the frame on angle brackets - you level it onto packers (home-made plywood packers, plastic spacer shims, etc) then bracket it to the floor. I thought you were using some kind of rubber pad, though. One tip - if using crowned timber (i.e. timber with a few millimetres of belly on them), always place the crown uppermos as it will tend to flatten in service whereas a hollow is always a hollow.

Draughtsman said:
What's the glue filler for? Is there a PU/filler glue available off the shelf that's ready to go or do I need to mix in a filler myself?
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You don't add a filler - I believe quite a lot of the D4 glues sold as flooring glues such as this Egger D4 glue already contain a filler. The last stuff we got from a trade outlet was opaque and definitely had filler in it. The filler is used to change the viscosity and helps if you are laying onto slightly unlevel surfaces (stops runniness).

Draughtsman said:
What sort of glue thickness under the ply should I allow for? A couple of mil?
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0.5mm or so? The glue gets flattened down and squeezed out but is also partially absorbed into the tops of the joists and the sub-flooring
 
I go thru the CLS in sheds and pick out the straight ones, but I'll put the rings to curve over. NEVER would have thought of it.

I have various thickness ply kicking about for packs, what LxW do you use?

Will 100x100 angle brackets be enough to hold the frames down once level on packs?
 
Draughtsman said:
I go thru the CLS in sheds and pick out the straight ones, but I'll put the rings to curve over. NEVER would have thought of it.
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Standard approach. You can't always guarantee that all the timber you are working with are perfect so you need some way to work with slightly imperfect stock. But obviously you do want to start with the straightest stuff you can to start with

Draughtsman said:
I have various thickness ply kicking about for packs, what LxW do you use?
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100 x 100mm? There isn't really a standard size

Draughtsman said:
Will 100x100 angle brackets be enough to hold the frames down once level on packs?
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TBH I'd be fixing my timber packers down to the concrete sub-floor, then foir fine adjustment I'd use plastic packing shims - the sort used for door and window insallation, like horseshoe packers:

Horseshoe Packer - Broadfix.png


or these glazing packers:

Glazing Packers.png


You can buy these in a variety of thicknesses, from 1mm up to 10 or 12mm, and they are often sold by builders merchants as mixed bags of packers. One well known brand is Broadfix.

Once I've levelled the joists I always fix down through the joists, through the packers (don't leave the packers loose!) and into the timber packers. beneath. I generally angle screw - two screws, one from each side - which fix things down. The brackets are a bonus IMHO
 
I already have the diyers lifetime supply bag of window shims..

2 screws holding each ply pack down to conc. base?

6x40mm rawl plugs?

The conc. isn't great, 9.5 or 12.7 to dust.

A splash of glue between ply packs might not hurt, once levels are ok.

Maybe brackets later.
 
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Why haven't you just screeded that floor, or am I completely missing the point?
 
Draughtsman said:
2 screws holding each ply pack down to conc. base?
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Yes

Draughtsman said:
6x40mm rawl plugs?
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For 5.0mm screws I'd normally use brown plugs (7mm hole). Personal preference

Draughtsman said:
The conc. isn't great, 9.5 or 12.7 to dust.
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Sorry, but 9.5 ot 12.7 to dust?

Draughtsman said:
A splash of glue between ply packs might not hurt, once levels are ok.
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Yes. It's more to stop a pack if packers shedding bits as you work around the floor.
 
cdbe said:
Why haven't you just screeded that floor, or am I completely missing the point?
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Cold. And whoever laid the conc. didn't mesh it so there are some interesting cracks. The Sikha Rapid that dropped into the cracks hasn't cracked since setting tho, and it's been there all winter so I doubt it will move..
 
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I'll get some 7x45mm brown plugs in.

Frame sits in door reveal nicely but could rotate 90? Far/outer wall is 5m, on the right is 4m.

I thought setting top of ply to underside of the 10mm uPVC P_20220409_112806[1].jpg P_20220409_112338[1].jpg threshold strip would give plenty for 6mm click vinyl/edge strip.

Left side of frame is sat on 2x15mm architrave offcuts but still needs to drop a few mil.

Door frame rises to left slightly, floor rises to right..

terrible images but I've moved the frame out of the sun now.
 
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