Taylor Wimpey new build sockets/plugs query

[Paigepreston1990]

Hi

Was hoping someone can point me in the right direction, just note DIY and electrical stuff I’m not very good

I’m moving to a new build (not yet moved) - with Taylor Wimpey and I’m looking to change the plugs and sockets from White to Matte black

Thought I’d go to Screwfix and ask them can they provide the items however the question I got was the size off the back box is it 16mm, 25mm or 35mm

I have no idea I’ve asked the Taylor Wimpey team and they keep saying the standard specs when asking what is the standard specs they can’t answer that when asking for the docs / specs they seem not that have that or not replying with that info

Just wanted to know if anyone knows this info or is it the case of, move in take each socket out get the make/ model and size off the back box and find the matte black equivalent?

Phew

Thanks for reading

 

[ETAF]

i would guess it may also depend on the sparky who put it in , if they supplied the kit
as you are planning to replace them all - you will need to take the old ones OFF anyway- BUT before doing
you could just unscrew the front plate and then measure the backbox depth
should be quite easy to do - but becareful in case they have stripped back the insulation and there is copper showing - which will be live, unless you isolate the circuits at the consumer unit

i would not expect 13A sockets to be on 16mm boxes
I would expect switches to be on 16mm and sockets on a minimum of 25mm BUT they may just have purchased a load of 35mm backboxs to save money , as i think USB sockets need a 35mm backbox

BUT just a DIYer , so maybe wrong

Also if you look at the sockets you are thinking of buying , they should in the spec provide the minimum backbox size required to fit
so if it says minimum 25mm , then it wont matter if 25mm or 35 mm back boxes

if you look at specs the sockets with a USB/USB-C connection minimum is 35mm backbox

 

[dmcclymont]

Highly likely 25mm as new build is generally done to the lowest viable spec for things that are not on plain view in the showhouse - harsh but true .... Take a tip and use a third party snag surveyor

 

[ETAF]

Take a tip and use a third party snag surveyor

good point about the snag surveyor , a friend of a friend did this on a new build and found LOADS of issues which the builder then HAD to put right .... I think even on the forums its been mentioned , only found out about such a thing last week when staying with said friend
They found things that did not comply with regs , drain issues , amongst other things - so quite serious problems

 

[EFLImpudence]

I would not think the depth of the backboxes could be considered a snag/defect if all the sockets are fitted properly.

That you might want to fit sockets that require deeper backboxes is hardly the builder's fault.

 

[ETAF]

I would not think the depth of the backboxes could be considered a snag/defect if all the sockets are fitted properly.

i was not saying that - just picking up on a NEW BUILD generally , nothing to do with the question really , just i heard of the TIP only last week and read also on a forum recently

 

[EFLImpudence]

dmcclymont was saying that.

 

[flameport]

16mm, 25mm or 35mm

They will be 25mm

16mm are only suitable for light switches. No socket outlet will fit that.
25mm is the cheapo default option used by the sling it and wing it brigade.
35mm is what you would expect from a quality new installation so that USB sockets and flat plate accessories can be installed.

 

[Murdochcat]

I have always fitted 35mm back boxes for switches and sockets, and 47 mm for some isolators and shaver sockets.

That’s just me doing it like that to give my customers the greatest flexibility

As for flat plates - the work of the devil unless you have a perfectly flat wall and 35 m back boxes

 

[trojanhawrs]

I'm no housebasher but imagine 25mm is the standard because it fits in nicely with dot and dab.

 

[JohnW2]

I'm no housebasher but imagine 25mm is the standard because it fits in nicely with dot and dab.

I'm sure that's often a major consideration, and not only with dot and dab. When one goes to 35mm, one will (on a solid wall) nearly always have to be burrowing into bricks/blocks - a lot more effort than just plaster and plasterboard.

 

[plugwash]

I'm sure that's often a major consideration, and not only with dot and dab. When one goes to 35mm, one will (on a solid wall) nearly always have to be burrowing into bricks/blocks - a lot more effort than just plaster and plasterboard.

My understanding is that with traditional plaster, 16mm (which is only suitable for lightswitches) would be roughly "plaster depth" and 25mm and 35mm would both require "digging out", whereas with dot and dab 25mm would be roughly the depth of the adhesive/plasterboard/skim.

 

[Paigepreston1990]

Wow there's a lot to consider, thank you all for the great help, may need an electrician to go and get the correct measurement etc before purchasing anything, thanks again

 

[ETAF]

may need an electrician to go and get the correct measurement

if you are going to change all the fronts yourself , then its just undoing 2 screws (maybe covers) maybe and measuring the depth
Photo of the socket faces

anyway

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Wow there's a lot to consider, thank you all for the great help, may need an electrician to go and get the correct measurement etc before purchasing anything, thanks again

If you don't mind the sockets being a little proud of the wall, you can buy spacers, which fit between socket and wall. They can save a lot of work.