Taylor Wimpey new build sockets/plugs query

A few years back, I went for a site visit to a new-build estate.
All the internal walls were constructed from three 12.5mm plasterboards sandwiched together.
It would be interesting getting a 35mm backbox into those! :)
 
In my in laws house the sockets are wired in a 6mm spider arrangement, single sockets on 16mm back boxes
 
flameport said:
They will be 25mm

16mm are only suitable for light switches. No socket outlet will fit that.
25mm is the cheapo default option used by the sling it and wing it brigade.
35mm is what you would expect from a quality new installation so that USB sockets and flat plate accessories can be installed.
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"16mm are only suitable for light switches."
And I might add not well really for more than 1 gang one way either. I`d always use 25mm min, in fact loads of dimmer switches would not last very long, when filament lamps were the norm, with 16mm even if they fit, poor air circulation.
 
RandomGrinch said:
A few years back, I went for a site visit to a new-build estate.
All the internal walls were constructed from three 12.5mm plasterboards sandwiched together.
It would be interesting getting a 35mm backbox into those! :)
Click to expand...
Dead easy. Use plasterboard boxes.
 
plugwash said:
My understanding is that with traditional plaster, 16mm (which is only suitable for lightswitches) would be roughly "plaster depth" and 25mm and 35mm would both require "digging out", whereas with dot and dab 25mm would be roughly the depth of the adhesive/plasterboard/skim.
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I think that's probably all true as a 'true in most cases' generalisation, but there is a fair amount of 'variation'. I suppose I should have written "... and not necessarily only with dot and dab" ...

... in my (limited) experience, the thickness of adhesive with dot & dab can be sufficiently that a 25mm box would stick out a bit. Conversely, in some cases (some in my house, 'traditional plaster' can be so thick as to accommodate a 25mm box. However, when I wrote, I was probably thinking about walls which were boarded on battens - which would accommodate a 25 mm (maybe 35 mm) box without having to excavate the wall.
 
RandomGrinch said:
It's the 2mm tolerance before breaking out into the next room, I was alluding to.
You could probably cut all the way through and just use filler on the rear of the back box?
Click to expand...

RandomGrinch said:
It's the 2mm tolerance before breaking out into the next room, I was alluding to.
You could probably cut all the way through and just use filler on the rear of the back box?
Click to expand...
Any idea which developer, according to a guy at TW they and all of their derivatives have never done such a thing and it would not pass BR. However stramet (spelling?) board made from compressed straw was popular for a short while a couple of decades ago. Total pain in the backside mucking about with silly metal clips and resin.
 
I had fun like that in an old place in Austria. Some of the internal walls were built using some kind of gypsum block that was 45 mm thick with only a skim of plaster on either side. The standard continental back box is 45 mm deep, so no more than a skim of bonding behind the box. The slightly fancier walls in the same place used 60 mm block. It‘s possible to sink a back box into that without knocking through using a carbide hole saw but only just about.
 
SUNRAY said:
Any idea which developer, according to a guy at TW they and all of their derivatives have never done such a thing and it would not pass BR. However stramet (spelling?) board made from compressed straw was popular for a short while a couple of decades ago. Total pain in the backside mucking about with silly metal clips and resin.
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I'm afraid I can't remember the developer, only that it was a reasonably large site near Bridgend, and it was definitely three layers of plasterboard - most of us were left dumbfounded!
And when I say a few years back, this was 1996! :oops:
 
The closest I ever got to anything like this was a colleague at work around early to mid 80's wanted to knock through between the kitchen and dining room. He got an architect to calculate the RSJ required, sourced it and arranged for a few of us to be there early Saturday morning, hired acrow jacks etc etc etc. A couple of hours in everything was propped and ready to knock the wall out...

It was a single layer of PB tacked onto the back of the kitchen units and to the ceiling by coving each side. Surface mounted double sockets back to back held in place with nuts and bolts fed with surface minitrunking. After we got the jacks out of the way it took about 5 minutes to strip the wall and kitchen units, the longest part being the bottle neck to get the detritus out of the back door lobby to the back garden.
 
That beats the flimsiest wall I‘ve ever seen (on Youtube) - 19 mm floorboards fixed to the floor and ceiling with a few nails.
 
A friend of mine had a second baby and made the decision to partition a bedroom to create a nursery, did the job with 1½ x ¾ timber and 3mm ply recovered from packing cases from work, the only real problem he had was hammering in the nails to fix the ply where it was all so flexible. He was expecting to remove it before moving house but a divorce got in the way, it was still there at the next sale several years later on.
 
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