Worst Tiling Ever??

Is this the worst tiling you have ever seen from a professional installer?


  • Total voters
    32
And I wouldn't leave the bath resting on those filmsy pieces of wood.
Get the pipes moved, it takes minutes.
No, quite!

The guys that did the tiling 2nd time around are coming bak to finish the job off. They aren't just tilers but they install bathrooms. It makes sense to dog-leg the pipe at the foot end of the bath and again at the tap end to avoid the legs and get rid of those timber baulks at either end
(for preference, I'd completely remove the pipe, take the tiles off the shower end wall, place pipe off-centre w.r.t bath, re-position shower & re-tile - but that's wishing for the Moon at this point).

The bath will then sit at the normal height.

Just a question. When a Regional Installations Manager came to visit the job (after the bathroom had been re-tiled I hasten to add, not to view the initial car crash) he said that it was "normal" to have a thin row of tiles above the bath rather than a full tile. I confess I disagreed (and so did the tilers who were also present). So, is it normal to tile from the bath upwards using a full tile to start with (i.e. a full tile meeting the bath edge) or a cut tile?

Best to have the tiles running behind the bath so that there is tile above and below the edge of the bath I'm guessing as per A or B. The RIM was trying to say C is usual - is he correct?

Tiles and Bath Positioning.jpg


However, due to space constraints, my daughter is faced with either D or E. Which is best/preferable of these two options?

Thanks

Dave
 
It's not actually the worst I've seen, you should see my brother in laws handywork. He tiled his kitchen floor using dot and dab technique and sounded like a xylophone when walked on apart from those that just cracked. Installed a dropped ceiling, which did just that , dipped in the edges as he didn't think it need timber all around the perimeter. His handy work even extends to vehicles, replacing a damaged hose from the master cylinder with a bit of clear hose from his fish tank , he cut it so long it rested on the hot engine.

Yes ... but I'm asking about a job done by a professional (at least I guess that he counts as a professional as he is a Wickes Accredited Installer and it is his job). Seems that the only qualifications needed to be accredited seem to be (a) two arms (check), (b) two legs (check), (c) breathing (check). Eyesight doesn't appear to be one of the criteria, nor common sense or competence!

Poll.jpg


Interestingly, with 7 votes in so far, ONE persion says that it is okay. I'm guessing that that is a joke and that they are not serious. If they are, I'd love to know why they think it is fine.

If you haven't yet voted (poll is above post #1 this thread) please do so. Thanks!

XRD
 
One of the vital jobs in tiling is to set out the walls to avoid any thin tiles (either horizontal or vertical). Usual advice is make yourself a gauge stick (marked with tile and grout lines), start in wall centre and check up and down and left and right to ensure you don't end up with slithers. Gets tricky when you have a bath under a window and you're tiling the reveals as well :) .
General advice with bath edge, sink etc seems to be tile down to the bath/sink then seal the gap.
Friend of mine had a quote from Wickes for a kitchen- one Wickes installer (who has done a nice job) suggested that if she rearranged the layout a bit (to better use the room and to differentiate from the original) he could do the kitchen and some extras (big radiator, suspended ceiling) for half the Wickes' kitchen quote...
 
What's the point in voting, the tiling's awful, you don't need a survey for that.
For the fun of it? You don't have to vote if you don't want to!

....even Keitai would do better ;)
Don't get the reference.

The guy who did the original job, voted ;)
Hahaha - that's a good one!

If he's reading this thread, he ought to go and stand in the corner and hang his head in shame! My 7 y.o. grandson could probably do a better job once he'd been shown how to do it and use a tile-cutting disc in an angle grinder (that was a joke by the way).

It is the kind of job you would expect from a partially-sighted person that was doing the job at night using a torch held in his teeth.

'Bad' just doesn't cover it.

The worst of it was the Regional Installation Manager (RIM) that came to inspect the job turned up after the initial tiling had been ripped out and 2 guys that knew what the were doing were finishing off the re-tile. "That looks great!" he said "You've done a good job!" errr... NO, actually!

All because the initial guy didn't want to touch the cold water feed pipe (that ran under the bath) because "I don't want to be funny, but that's not in the scope." Seriously? The pipe runs where the legs of the new bath is to go and you don't want to move the pipe?! Do you exepect that new fittings would just be a direct "drop-in-replacement"? No, of course you don't. Re-doing pipework is probably highly likely to a greater or lesser extent I'd have thought.

Also, measuring correctly, thinking in advance and planning what to do don't seem to be the initial installer's forte either. Several times things had to be pointed out to him (like something wouldn't fit after he had arranged/cut something) and he'd be like "Oh, yeah, I hadn't thought of that!".

Between us, my daughter (who was trying to work from home whilst this malarky was going on), myself and my wife have had to Project Manage the job since Wickes were adamant that they had no other installers available, that he should be allowed to finish the job and then the job "snagged" at the end. Had we initially allowed that, the snagging would have involved a total rip-out and re-start (which isn't snagging in my book). Good job that after Day 4 the instructions were to rip it all out and start again (what a waste of time and materials that was).

The tiling (the subject of this thread), is just the most visible evidence of this guy's complete ineptitude. He probably shouldn't be allowed to work with anything sharp, hot or mains-powered.

Now it will be just a matter of getting Wickes to refund part of the money already paid and getting some form of compensation for the time / distress / inconvenience, etc - not to mention additional child-care costs, phone calls and our time (and petrol) shuttling back and forth to house sit / supervise / project manage. Four and a half weeks so far without a working bathroom toilet, basin, bath and shower for my daughter and her two small children. They have had to drive to our house (10-mile round trip) several times a week for baths & showers too.

What is a reasonable figure do you think for a refund - 50%, 60%, 75%, all of it??

I have the CEO's email address if Customer Relations turns out to be a bust!

Anyhoo, rant over (for now).

XRD
 
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I have mentioned this before but there is such a shortage of skilled labour that the diy sheds will use anyone they can find .
 
I have mentioned this before but there is such a shortage of skilled labour that the diy sheds will use anyone they can find .
Yep - like I said in post #17 of his thread:
Seems that the only qualifications needed to be accredited seem to be (a) two arms (check), (b) two legs (check), (c) breathing (check). Eyesight doesn't appear to be one of the criteria, nor common sense or competence!

XRD
 
my daughter is faced with either D or E. Which is best/preferable of these two options?
D or E are the usual methods, depends on the size of the tiles relative to the wall height and other features in the room whether it's a full tile or part.
Tiles behind the bath means nothing to support the edge of the bath and more likely to leak.

What should happen is that a batten is fixed to the wall so that the whole edge of the bath rests on it and is fully supported.
Line of silicone sealant applied to the top of the batten and to the wall just above it, bath goes in against the sealant.
When set, tiles are installed above the bath leaving a small gap, tiles are grouted (but importantly NOT in the gap between bath and tiles), when the grout is set the gap between tiles and bath sealed with silicone.
Same applies with a shower tray.
 
D or E are the usual methods, depends on the size of the tiles relative to the wall height and other features in the room whether it's a full tile or part.
Tiles behind the bath means nothing to support the edge of the bath and more likely to leak.

What should happen is that a batten is fixed to the wall so that the whole edge of the bath rests on it and is fully supported.
Line of silicone sealant applied to the top of the batten and to the wall just above it, bath goes in against the sealant.
When set, tiles are installed above the bath leaving a small gap, tiles are grouted (but importantly NOT in the gap between bath and tiles), when the grout is set the gap between tiles and bath sealed with silicone.
Same applies with a shower tray.
Hmmm..

I haven't checked that there is a batten there to support the edge.

Knowing the installer and his competence - probably not!

Dave
 
I feel for your daughter. The whole thing is stressful and top of that even if you end up with a nice job once someone competent has redone it, it just really takes the shine off the experience of getting something nice and new that you've spent hard earned cash on and probably been looking forward to.
 
UPDATE ...

Well nothing has been done on the job since last Monday (6th).

The bath is plumbed in but pipework is leaking somewhere (this done by a 'plumber'). The shower is connected up but unable to be used because of a lack of sealant around the bath and ...

Gap under shower screen (1).JPG
Gap under shower screen (2).JPG
Gap under shower screen (3).JPG


... the fact that the shower screen doesn't actually touch the side of the bath!

The sink is plumbed in and can be used but the top edge of the sink is rather high off the floor (around 55mm too high)

The wc is plumbed in but we haven't used it in case it needs to be taken out/altered again.

The installer also cut a hole for the push-flush button in a decor panel ...

Hole in the basin panel (1).jpeg
Hole in the basin panel (2).jpeg


... but he initially cut it far too big (as you can see) so he had to use the decor panel that should fit under the sink.

Currently (15th March) we are midway through Week SIX of a 4-5 day job and we still have a list of 19 outstanding things that need to be done to complete the job.

Wickes Customer Relations say that they have to agree to the items on the list before engaging someone to do the work - but nobody from Wickes seems to be prepared to actually come to the house and see for themselves.

They are also reluctant to give anything other than their first names and generic email addresses. No phone numbers only the 0330 1234 123 number for Head Office.

I've threatened them with legal action, social media publicity and BBC Watchdog where I'll name names (we'll see if that makes any difference) if my daughter doesn't have a finished bathroom at the end of what will be week EIGHT.

I'll start another poll shortly to see when folks think it may be finished. One option will be "Christmas 2024"

XRD
 
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Some bbc local radio stations do consumer type programmes that seem to get results from companies with a reputation to protect

Blup
 
OMG!
How could anyone, even a diyer fit a screen like that???
And the hole for the flush button?!?!?!
It must've been his very first job.
Those buttons come with instructions and can be fitted virtually on any surface.
Jesus Christ, I feel for you.
 
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