Destroyed lintel with a drill what now?

Slightly off topic here, but the galvanized lintels such as IG are not the be-all-and-end-all.
Builders think that because they're galvanised, they can be installed without any protective covering such as a cavity tray.
Not so.
Initially, they are OK, but over time, the cement mortar around them gradually turns from alkaline to slightly acidic in the presence of damp (which can be
through rain penetration or even condensation). The acid then attacks the zinc, and exposes the steel. When the steel oxidizes, it expands and fractures the mortar joints around it.
 
tony1851 said:
What on earth's 'risky' about timber?
Easier, lighter, can be cut to the right length and notched, and easy to fix plasterboard and curtain rail etc.
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Non of those points relate to risk, but to perceived convenience.

Timber within an external wall is inherently a risk - risks related to damp, rot and infestation. Factor in that it's a solid wall, horizontal above a window, possibly lime mortar and the risk increases.

Then factor in inserting new timber retrospectively and the subsequent shrinkage, acclimatising and loading and there's more risk.

Compare with a pre stressed concrete lintel.

The OP's comments about having to cut bricks makes no sense. What that is saying is "I can't be bothered to do the best job, and want something easy for me to do, not what's best or correct. I want to bodge it"

Btw, with a 65mm concrete lintel, the curtain rail will be fixed above the lintel.
 
Millions of pre-War houses have timber lintels supporting the inner skin (OP suggested it was a cavity wall) and also openings in internal walls.

There is risk in everything - I could conceivably get electrocuted while typing this on my laptop, but its the degree of risk we are talking about. OP might do his back in if trying to lift a concrete lintel. If there's any risk of 'rot or infestation', OP would be advised to replace his (timber) roof and (timber) floors in steel and concrete just in case.

Also bear in mind that at 1300 span, it may be slightly over the limit for a 100 x 65 pre-cast job, in which case a 100 x 140 might be needed.

Many of these lintels are composite, meaning they have to be built-in as work proceeds, not added as retrofit, particularly with the 65 deep ones.
Timber's a no-brainer in this situation.
 
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Knock on my old wood there are no signs of any infestation. What i mean with the brick chopping is that the work would look odd. Wood makes sense and look at the rest of the pre war houses like Tony said all wood lintels and no problems these days i think they arw just saving on environment.... This house is bone dry and the attic we cleaned out had dust 2 inches thick and was a breathing nightmare for 4 long days i think i still have a mark from my mask in my skull...
I would say oak it is then..
 
tony1851 said:
Timber's a no-brainer in this situation
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No brain more like.

Who actually specifies timber lintels nowadays?

Do building regulations or standards even allow them?

As for the old "we used to do that, so it's ok" argument, only works when there is nothing better has been invented in the meantime.

But yeah, the OP can gripfill a bit of ply up there if he likes in his own house.
 
^woody^ said:
No brain more like.

Who actually specifies timber lintels nowadays?

Do building regulations or standards even allow them?

As for the old "we used to do that, so it's ok" argument, only works when there is nothing better has been invented in the meantime.

But yeah, the OP can gripfill a bit of ply up there if he likes in his own house.
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I've specified timber lintels on several occasions, when warranted.

Timber IS permitted by building regulations, otherwise we'd all be specifying concrete floors and steel-framed roofs.

As for the "we used to do that" argument, it still doesn't preclude an old material or method if - in the circumstances - it works out
better.

Anyway, can't we agree to differ!? It's sunny outside, why not let's all go and sit in the garden and enjoy the weather.
 
tony1851 said:
Anyway, can't we agree to differ!? It's sunny outside, why not let's all go and sit in the garden and enjoy the weather.
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I'm one step ahead of you. Sitting on the timber slatted chair on the timber deck. :eek:

Looking up at the timber framed and timber clad house. Lol
 
tony1851 said:
Builders think that because they're galvanised, they can be installed without any protective covering such as a cavity tray.
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I thought I saw somebody on here saying galvanised steel lintels didn't need a cavity tray because of the surface finish but yes, cavity trays are required over steel lintels and I have always specified that and builders have never disputed it.
 
Halfaudio said:
Steel loves to rust and expand and make things bad. Concentrate is heavy and fragile. Wood can be water damaged or eaten away but when treated really well it will last forever look at the wood in this house still holds well no soft spots or wet rot i have checked all the roof with no issues. And wood is easy to work with and easy to srew blinds in. I know that concrete should be the way to go but the sizes are odd and i have to cut the bricks in half horizontally to get that extra space filled in because the new ones are smaller in size.
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You were the one asking for advice and now seem to know it all :!:
Halfaudio said:
I have seen them rusting myself bricks lifted and water seeping past even more and things get pretty ugly and those are the biggest cold spots in the house because if you have a little research steel lintels will chill your house.
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Steel lintels should have a perforated basepate to reduce cold bridging and be filled with insulation but see comment above :!:
 
Halfaudio said:
Knock on my old wood there are no signs of any infestation. What i mean with the brick chopping is that the work would look odd. Wood makes sense and look at the rest of the pre war houses like Tony said all wood lintels and no problems these days i think they arw just saving on environment.... This house is bone dry and the attic we cleaned out had dust 2 inches thick and was a breathing nightmare for 4 long days i think i still have a mark from my mask in my skull...
I would say oak it is then..
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So why are you asking for advice on here then :?::!:
 
Leofric if you have a problem with me asking for a second opinion there are several ways we can deal with that don't test me i am polite and came to talk with sensible people.I am not a know it all but my friend plumer calls me a man with many skills i always like to learn and educate myself there is no need for finger pointing.Live with your steel lintels like i live with my timber ones.

Ohh forgot to mention i have a masive steel lintel across the kitchen i had to replace it because of the rust and it was making ceiling ugly yellow. Timber ones still stand strong and there is something that i like about it..
Each of the things have they're disadvantages and advantages.. i may be young but old school way is my preferred way.
Thank you for the detailed information i have learned quite a few new things there will be others looking for same answers!
I think i will stick around here for a bit (y)
 
tony1851 said:
In what way is a timber lintel different from a timber floor with regard to Building Regulations? - they are both structural elements.
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I'm back inside now:whistle:

It's not the material, but the use of a material in a particular location or situation. Glass is a structural element, as is aluminium, but there are places where you certainly would not want to use them.
 
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