Destroyed lintel with a drill what now?

I counted 10 courses above the lintel - reducing in length to the apex. Now I don't know for sure but it could well be a prestressed lintel with one metal rod through it. If it was my house I would leave it as it is on the balance of probability that it might drop down @ the crack, and disturb the bricks above to a major degree.( I have no degree in building construction ) Just my opinion;)
 
tony1851 said:
In what way is a timber lintel different from a timber floor with regard to Building Regulations? - they are both structural elements.
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The wood in floors and roofs does not have to be built into the blockwork walls where it could rot possibly.
 
Halfaudio said:
Ohh forgot to mention i have a masive steel lintel across the kitchen i had to replace it because of the rust and it was making ceiling ugly yellow.
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What sort of steel lintel was it , had it been rustproofed ? Was it over an internal opening or in an external wall ? Sensible questions I hope you agree.
Stick around to learn (y)
 
Leofric said:
The wood in floors and roofs does not have to be built into the blockwork walls where it could rot possibly.
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So if timber floors and roofs are not built into the walls, what holds the joists, rafters and purlins up?
 
tony1851 said:
but over time, the cement mortar around them gradually turns from alkaline to slightly acidic in the presence of damp (which can be
through rain penetration or even condensation). The acid then attacks the zinc, and exposes the steel.
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Couldn't that be a problem with timber lintels ?
 
Nige F said:
I would leave it as it is on the balance of probability that it might drop down @ the crack, and disturb the bricks above to a major degree.
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With respect but I think that is the concern ,once the concrete has cracked the lintel has lost its structural integrity and needs to be replaced.
 
Makes you wonder how much structural strength the original had, if merely drilling it broke it :confused:
 
Leofric said:
In the case of floors and trusses joist hangers and wallplates .
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I've never been a fan of supporting floor joists off hangers, preferring to build them into the inner skin, which is structurally the proper way.
But the point is that floors, trimmers, trusses, rafters, wall plates, purlins, and timber beams are always supported off the inners skin, where they won't be subject to damp issues.
And if timber cannot be used for beams, is my copy of BS 5268 Structural Use of Timber (which refers to timber beams, lintels and trimmers) redundant?
 
Afraid I don't have access to a copy of BS 5268 at the moment tony but the original query was about lintels which are built into and support masonry walls.
Beams and trimmers are different situations.
 
Halfaudio said:
I would say oak it is then..
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What do you intend using for fixing into the oak lintel ?
p s oak is obviously a more durable (and expensive ) material than the timber most people on here will be referring to when discussing structural timber in building which is usually stress graded softwood .
 
Leofric said:
Afraid I don't have access to a copy of BS 5268 at the moment tony but the original query was about lintels which are built into and support masonry walls.
Beams and trimmers are different situations.
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The point I'm making is that timber elements are only used where there is no possibility of dampness. If the wall is damp to the point where an inner timber lintel decays, then there are more significant problems than lintel decay.
There are millions of older pre-1914 houses with solid walls, and with stone lintels or brick arches externally, and timber lintels internally.
 
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